Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. Initially there is a slight green oak note that disconcerts. The palate is better, with greater complexity (spice, dried herbs, almonds) and the sharpness of biological aging. New oak reappears in the finish but with greater subtlety. 17

Andrew Jefford: Clear, light walnut. Refined and intricate aromas: graceful, light, with dried fruits and crystallized fruits mingling with wax polish and pollen. Lovely. On the palate, this is long, saline, and umami-rich, drily nutty, pungent and saliva-enticing—everything you could want of a dry Amontillado, in sum. Deftly drawn, with more pronounced acidity than many. I feel I am being almost mean with my score, but in the end I feel that this is just slightly one-dimensional compared to the very best of today’s wines, but it will disappoint no one, and I could down a glass at any time of day or night. 16

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber with an olive-green rim; baked, savory-meaty-soupy aromas, distinctive but lacking in finesse; full, savory-meaty character, rich, quite satisfying but somehow lacking in poise and direction. 14.5