Jesús Barquín: Chestnut, with copper hues. Stale notes of old butt rob definition. The palate is very dry and dominated by notes of burned sugar. Lacks finesse for a better rating. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Light to mid-walnut. Smooth and harmonious, but slightly homogenous, too, with a plastic or putty-like simplicity. On the palate, though, the wine is better than the aromas suggested it would be: long, pure, and rousing, with fine dry apricot fruit and a cuttingly clean acid-aldehyde edge. Good wine, but the score not lifted by its lack of aromatic layering and complexity. 13

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber, with olive green rim; attractive, integrated aromas of figs and damp leaves, slightly autumnal; rich, powerful, and intense, with a slightly casky character on the finish. Not as seamless as some, but big and powerful, with depth and concentration. 16