Essi Avellan | Medium-deep lemon. Overt, softly fruity nose, with vanilla, straw, peach, and yellow apple. Some soft, smoky-toasty layers. Sitting on the reductive side. Zingy palate, with good volume and plushness. Dry, medium-long finish. Youthful still and can take time. | 95

Simon Field | Light green-gold; oyster-shell hue. Toasty sourdough aromatic, apple strudel, a hint of yogurt. Palate is correct, a little hemmed in, windfall fruit, a pithy backdrop, and a hint of iodine. A metallic flourish at the end, a little autumnal in what should by right be a late-spring sonata. The second bottle is more textured, more elegant, tighter-knit, and, given the benefit of the doubt, pushing the score up a notch. | 90

Anthony Rose | Pale gold in color, showing a complexing degree of autolysis. There’s a subtly evolved toastiness and praline nuttiness in the aroma, following through onto the tongue with a roundness of texture; this shows perhaps a certain warmth in the vintage. The finish contains sufficient saltiness and acidity to balance the enterprise nicely. | 95