Tim Atkin | Youthful, plenty of color. A wine that isn’t sure if it’s a modern or traditional style. Lots of toasty, smoky oak, some chalky minerality, but somewhat foursquare on the palate. Overripe and a little fig-like. | 91

Simon Field | Midnight-black, youthful pink/purple rim; nose of sous-bois, briary, and wild strawberry; hints of fennel, charcuterie, and resin. The palate is a little troubled by oak, the drying finish challenges the pleasure principle at the moment: boysenberry, white pepper, and chocolate. The structure threatens, rococo-like, to overwhelm the fruit at the moment, such is the ambition of the extraction. | 91

Andrew Jefford | Dark, dense black-red; opaque at the heart and purple at the rim. Full on the nose, though slightly toffee aromas: some oxidation here? Lacks a little freshness, purity, and lift, though generosity is not in question. Ample vanilla, too. A deep-fruited though rather woody wine on the palate, though I can’t find any oxidation on the palate, so perhaps the aromatic toffee is best ascribed to wood. Enjoyable and exuberant depths here, though the aesthetics are simple and the handling rough-and-ready. Palpable tannins, which may owe more to wood than to grape skins. | 88