Andrew Jefford | Bright mid-gold. Warm, full, broad-beamed, honeyed, with intricate fungal intrigue; ground nuts, too, and damp fallen leaves. Complex aromatics that really seem to move the Riesling discourse forward, though unusual and less classical than many. Just a lovely, commanding, involving aroma. Wow: so much on the palate, so concentrated, yet with none of the vices of overconcentration or needless concentration. What you find here is magnificent fruit architecture, which is a legacy of its site allowed to reach full articulacy via the dry style: ringing, long, festive. It’s quite bright; there is ample acidity. That acidity is deep, ripe, and murmurous. There’s a bottom catch of stone to it. Very translucent and bright: wondrous wine, and enough to convert any Riesling skeptic, since it drinks beautifully, too, and is not at all “overintellectual.” I would say Alsace, and a wonderful site and inspired winemaking. But if it is Germany, which it may well be, it’s a triumphant vindication of trocken. | 95

Stephan Reinhardt | Intensely aromatic yet pure and fresh on the nose, with butter and ripe, elegant, and clear Riesling aromas, as well as stony notes (think of slate plates cutting the Riesling berry) on the nose, opening this complex and thrilling Alsace-like grand cru that combines fruit and stones in an easygoing, very delicate, but also complex and sophisticated way. Pure, bone-dry, and beautifully balanced on the palate, this is a very mineral and tense yet also juicy Riesling, with great finesse, vitality, and energy. Gorgeous, yet for people following the Apollonian rather than Dionysian principle. 2021–50. | 94

Anthony Rose | Pale lemon-lime in color, this is quite exotically fruity, with guava and banana notes, albeit a tad shy at the same time. There’s a faint prickle on the tongue, and the stone-fruit flavors that follow are nicely underpinned by a latent streak of saltiness that adds to the appetizing nature of this wine, whose texture is tangy and finishes nicely dry. | 91