Andrew Jefford | Pale to mid-gold in color, with quite chunky, firm fruits. There is apple but there is something rather riper, too: green plum and some apricot and even a sketch of mango. Exuberant and enticing— though some might say it is a lightly oxidative style. Full and dry, though quite light in weight, with some vinosity; the fruits are very secondary and not primary, so suggesting their dried iterations rather than the fresh-picked sort. This is another fine wine, with shape, elegance, length, and purity. The aftertaste is a perfect synthesis of those modulated, secondary fruit flavors and the fermentative structure and sinew that comes from having carried the wine through to dryness (vinosity). Harmonious and seamless, and very engaging; eminently food-friendly. Vinosity (and color) would normally suggest Alsace. | 92

Stephan Reinhardt | Bright and self-confident in its golden robe performs this rich and super-ripe yet refined and elegant Riesling, which reveals pretty particular flinty aromas of wet, crushed stones or even ashes spewed out by a volcano along with herbal aromas. Fascinating and unique in its complex flavors and elegance. Also, on the palate this is a quiet but rich and elegant, beautifully refined and balanced, persistently salty Riesling of timeless beauty. The finish is salivating, and the fruit is completely interwoven with the stones and minerals. 2021–50. | 95

Anthony Rose | A pale greeny gold, this wine is quite sweet and exotic in aroma, with notes of honey and lime marmalade, while in the mouth it tastes drier than the aromas would have you believe. There’s a good volume to the citrusy fruit spreading out across the tongue, with just about sufficient balancing acidity to back up the fruit. | 89