Stephen Brook | The nose is infused with rich blackberry fruit, and it’s already quite open and forthright. Opulent but dense on the palate, this has weight and vigor and seems quite extracted, with chocolaty tones, as well as stern black fruits. It has swagger and energy that mostly make up for its lack of poise and finesse. A good solid Brunello that’s built to last, showing structure and length. | 92

Andrew Jefford | Clear garnet red, with ample inner glow. Sweet, soft, rounded, complex, and harmonious on the nose: red and black fruits both. Hard to anatomize, but supremely satisfying and at the same time classical, too. Some backing spice, but it’s all very delicately sewn. Quiet, Vermeer-like virtues. I love this. Soft, fine-grained, graceful, tender, lifted, and light—but wonderfully delicious and the kind of wine that you could drain to the last drop and rise refreshed the next day. Fine-quality raw materials, beautifully aged, though very unshowy. Supremely drinkable and mouth- freshening. An unblockbuster. | 94

Michael Palij | Black olive, coal tar, black cherry, vanilla, hazelnut, coconut, kirsch, and orange zest all contribute to a mouth-filling palate with layers of fruit and oak combining to make a big mouthful of Montalcino. In the final analysis, this is led by oak rather than fruit, and the finish attenuates more than one might like, but it remains a big, satisfying wine. | 92