Stephen Brook | The nose is a touch sweet and simple, but there’s no lack of fruit. Supple and forward, it nonetheless has some structure, though the tannins are graceful rather than forceful. Acidity contributes intensity, and there’s a welcome perkiness that keeps heaviness at bay. It’s not that nuanced, and the palate also seems a touch simple, but it’s balanced and satisfying. Quite long. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Deep, clear garnet. Warm, rounded, and comfortable, though without huge focus. Yet when everything is as right as this is, who cares? Soft, comforting, cat-like Brunello to curl up against on a winter’s night. Lovely creamy lapping qualities of fruit, yet class galore, too. Not too long to wait here, if at all. | 90

Michael Palij | Complex aromas of baking spice, orange peel, cedar, pencil shavings, blackcurrant, and blueberry combine to create an expansive palate against which the oak can work efficiently. The length is excellent, with high levels of tannin and acidity supporting the fruit and engaging the senses. This has it all: armloads of fruit, masses of tannins and sufficient acidity. Drink to 2030. | 97