Simon Field | Dark, uncompromising, midnight’s child, with a pull on the side of the glass that does not brook opposition; savory notes hold sway on nose and palate alike; plums going on raisin—quite a tight, rigid profile and chalky, crushed-rock tannins behind the usual descriptors of cassis and gum cistus. The palate has a flinty austerity that cannot fail but to highlight the primacy of the spirit, the burn at the back of the mouth very hard to dismiss. Sinewy and tight-grained, this is a youthful beast, its best years ahead of it, which is positive at the very least. | 90

Andrew Jefford | An even deeper color here than for [Croft 1991], this is absolutely opaque black-red and only gives way to scarlet at the rim with the greatest reluctance. Very dense for a wine that is nearly 30 years old. Aromatically, it remains tightly sewn, taut, and inarticulate, its overt aromas a mixture of treacle and licorice, with very little sweeter fruit notes. Almost grouchy (tanky or stinky), indeed, and we call for a second bottle just to make sure. I sense that more time in the decanter may open it up somewhat; even after five minutes or so, you begin to get ample dried tangerine-peel charm, as well as a meat jus and roast-beef savory note. On the palate, it is deep and dense, though not particularly structured or tannic; it also has more prominent acidity than you might expect. Indeed, that acidity is almost insistent. There is lots of flavor action, but the lack of bass notes suggests to me that this wine may not go the full distance, though it makes distracting conversation-piece tasting just now. There is also a question mark over the aromatic finesse. (Two bottles tried.) | 86

Richard Mayson | Very deep opaque black color, withathin browning rim; stewed and extractive on the nose, possibly oxidized. (Second bottle requested.) Second bottle very similar on the nose, with ripe, bold, but rather baked fruit, powerful tannins, and a dense, foursquare finish. A little lacking in grace and finesse. | 82