Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Very rich, black-fruit nose, graphite. This leaps from the glass. Supple and velvety, concentrated and spicy, with fine bracing acidity to carry the wine through the palate. It’s tight, spicy, and lively; despite the concentration, it’s not extracted or heavy-handed. Dauzac has been excelling in recent years, despite its once-dim reputation, and this is no exception. It has Margaux elegance and drive, and a long, fruit-driven finish. 17

Andrew Jefford: Dark black-red. Ample red fruits here, though slightly raisiny in style. Intense, but light-bodied, slightly dry, and strained in style. This will descend into stringiness in five years, so hurry along to make the most of its ripe, forceful, unsubtle fruits now. 13