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  1. Tasting Notes
January 25, 2024

2022 Burgundy: Côte de Beaune tasting notes part II

The second part of our Burgundy correspondent's selection of some of the best wines from the 2022 vintage in the Côte de Beaune.

By Sarah Marsh MW

Sarah Marsh MW’s coverage of this delightful vintage continues with the second part of her extensive notes on the wines of the Côte de Beaune, this time featuring producers from Meursault to Cheilly-lès-Maranges.

2022 Burgundy: Harmony born of an easy season

2022 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards

2022 Burgundy: A delightful Chablis vintage

2022 Burgundy: Chablis tasting notes

2022 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes part I

2022 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes part II

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2022 Burgundy: Côte de Beaune tasting notes part I

Côte de Beaune: Meursault

DOMAINE MICHEL BOUZEREAU

Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau is using three different rootstocks—5C and 110 R and Paulson 1103, used in the South of France—and finds that if he plants new vines in November rather than March, the vines get off to a good start. “I am not alone. We exchange information. This is the future, as we change the plant and culture. We will have solutions, but this is a transition period for Burgundy, and we must be attentive. For me, the best investment is to keep the vineyard in good health.” From the 2021 vintage, all the wines are under Diam. “We will not see the warmth as the wines age. The vintage is much purer than 2019. And more elegant than 2020.

Bourgogne Cote d’Or Clos du Moulin

Zesty and energetic, with a stony intensity and bright finish. Top-notch. 2025–28. 85

Meursault Les Grands Charrons

Generous and plumply rounded; succulent, but it focuses into a wet-stone finish. Nicely balanced and pure at the end. 2026–35. 17

Meursault Le Limozin

From just under 1 acre (0.4ha), below Genevrières, and young vines (this is only the third harvest). Citrus strike. Straight and zingy. Racy. Chases up with quite a persistent finish for young vines. Rather elegant. Picked on August 25. “I made a very good selection of plants… and I was surprised.” 2026–29. 87

Meursault Les Tessons

From 50-year-old vines. Intense aroma, with a touch of caramel. Firm structure, good density, and punchy energy. Ripe touch of apricot. Silky, golden, persistent finish. 2026–32. 90

Meursault Blagny Premier Cru

From Les Ravelles, now officially recognized as a premier cru climat in its own right. High-toned, delicate perfume. High-wired and quivering. Sparkles. A bright, lively, pure, and precise palate, with a sprinkle of salt to finish. 2027–32. 91

Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes

Glossy, candied citrus, succulent, and opulent. Carries into a creamy, rich finish, with a touch of crème brûlée At the very end there is freshness and precision. 2027–38. 94

Meursault Premier Cru Les Genevrières

Rose petal and violets to a perfumed palate in which fine acidity and salinity are woven with richness—an exotic aromatic quality. The warm breath of the spice market, with salt at the end. Intriguing wine. 2028–38. 94

Meursault Premier Cru Les Perrières

Tight and concentrated aroma. Compact, golden, rich palate, with crystallized ginger. Super-concentrated and focused, with a long and smooth finish. 2028–35+. 95

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets.

Vibrant citrus aroma to a vigorous palate, with excellent density and layering. Massive intensity and cold sapidity. The finish is super-concentrated, while being cold and cutting. Excellent finish. 2028–40. 96

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Champs Gains

A touch tropical. Broad for Champs Gains, with dried pineapple on the palate and softer acidity. A little bit heavy, maybe. 2027–30. 89

DOMAINE YVES BOYER-MARTENOT

There have been many changes at this domaine over recent years, which certainly shows in the uplift in the quality of the wine here. Vincent Boyer manages things in the winery, while his sister Sylvie looks after the vineyards. They were certified organic in 2021 and are moving to include biodynamic practices. Boyer has recently changed his trailer and invested in a foulage machine, for more precise handling of the grapes. He uses concrete and foudres for the second winter of aging, minimal sulfur, and bottles in July according to the phases of the moon. “I really believe in the influence of the moon, and I want to do more with the lunar calendar.”

Bourgogne Côte d’Or

The vineyards are just under Meursault on the Puligny side. Ripe grapefruit and ornage-peel aroma. Fresh and juicy energy, and an attractive, caramelized-orange finish. 2024–27. 84–85

Meursault Cuvée Fernand

As the concrete eggs have the capacity of four barrels, Boyer has moved to make a larger cuveé of Meursault that now includes the Charrons, which was previously made separately. A ripe and juicy, rather splashing and generous Meursault, which has lively freshness and a touch of buttermint and minerality on the end. 2026–29. 87

Meursault Narvaux

Density and punch. Powerful, grippy, cold, and stony. Good grip and intension for a village wine. Presence and persistence. Top job. 2027–35. 90

Meursault En l’Ormeau

From a parcel at the bottom of the village behind the house, where the soil is deeper (32 inches [80cm]) and has no rock. The vines are 99 years old now, but still going strong and producing 45hl/ha. A broad and generous palate. Expansive, but really fresh and opulent. Deep. On the finish, there is both fresh and candied lemon. 2026–30. 88

Meursault Tillets

Light and floral aroma. Delicate, bright, and zesty. High-toned. It has a fresh, cut-lemon slice. Pithy, vibrant, and racy, with a salty finish. 2026–30. 89

Meursault Premier Charmes

Succulent, with a touch of white pear. This is lightly creamy and nicely rounded, with a lively, long line on the finish. An elegant and vibrant Charmes. Sparking minerality to finish. 2028–35+. 94

Meursault Premier Cru Genevrières

From the highest part of the lower section. Perfumed, pink rose-petal aroma, then on the palate, delicate, long, and precise. Fine and taut on the pure and well-sustained finish. 2028–35+. 94–95

Meursault Premier Cru Perrières

Vibrant, high-toned, and pure. Mineral tension. Straight, piano-wire wine, with clipped, sharp edges and intensity on the focused finish. A tight and bright wine. Not the Perrières with the most density, but super-elegant and vivacious. 2008–35+. 94–95

Puligny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux

Delicate and pure. A straight, bright, delicate, and crispy edged palate, with a very attractive and nervy finish. Nice definition. 2026–30. 88

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Caillerets

Super-vibrant, with plenty of intensity; it has depth, good tension, and a cold grip. Excellent, persistent finish. 2028–38. 96

DOMAINE BUISSON-CHARLES

Patrick Essa says: “Working now with warmer vintages, we have to harvest precisely to capture the style of the vintage. We were afraid of not having enough acidity, but after the fermentation we had the acidity, and also after the MLF, so we do have freshness. It is like 2002 and 2010. I am not a fan of 2014 and 2017, as they are not deep enough. So, 2022 is like 2017, but with more of the concentration of 2010. It is also like 2002, for the balance and quality of fruit and because it is more discreet.”

Meursault Les Tessons

Rich, silky, and golden up-front, with a sharp, salty cut through the palate. Slices energetically into the finish. 2025–30+. 91

Meursault Premier Cru Les Bouchères

Very scented on the nose, with honeysuckle richness. It’s full and opulent on the palate, with luscious fruit enveloped in exotic floral aromas and lingering perfume to finish. 2027–35. 93–94

Meursault Premier Cru Charmes

From the upper part, just under Perrières, this is a lighter, elegant, slim, and silky Charmes, with a slight reserve, lively freshness, and delicate, glinting minerality on the persistent finish. 2028–35. 94

Meursault Premier Cru Les Gouttes d’Or

Super-glossy, full, and generously fruity. This has breadth and lots of energy, and a ripe and punchy finish. It’s exuberant. 2027–35. 94

DOMAINE JEAN-PHILIPPE FICHET

Succulent, juicy, and rounded whites, with plenty of sunny ripeness but a good line of acidity. Jean-Philippe has quite low pHs for the vintage. He uses 600-liter barrels for the smaller appellations and pièces for the rest. Chassin is the principal cooper, with some Seguin Moreau and Damy. Fichet compares the 2022 whites with “2017 and 2011—they all have good tension. Nobody liked 2011, but it is good now.”

Bourgogne Aligoté

Youthful, zesty aroma. Cucumber and grapefruit. A rich palate for Aligoté, rounded, succulent, and juicy, with almost a creamy apricot note and sweet acidity to finish. These are old vines and he picked later here on September 6. Top-notch. 2026–30. 85

Hautes-Côtes de Beaune

Slightly exotic fruit from this limestone soil, with salty, bitter pithy notes to balance. 2025–28. 84–85

Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes

A hedgerow floral aroma to a rounded, generous, palate, with excellent depth for a Bourgogne, a slightly tropical papaya character, and attractive bitterness. 2026–30. 85

Auxey-Duresses

Energetic spring onto the palate. A plump middle and a bright and singing, fresh finish. Very nicely balanced. 2026–30+. 86

Meursault

This is an assemblage of lieux-dits Les Clous, Chaumes des Narvaux, Le Limozin, Les Crotots, and Les Criots, made in 600-liter barrels. Citrus freshness on the nose, to a rounded, creamy palate; dried apricot and pineapple, somewhat exotic and generous, with just enough acidity and a nice frisson of tension to finish. 2026–30. 88–89

Meursault Les Chevalières

Glowing, lightly honeyed, and orange aroma. The palate is rounded and silky, with a cut of fresh and cool, white minerality. Very salty on the finish. Lovely. 2027–32. 91

Meursault Gruyaches

The vines here are more than 90-years-old. Super-intense and zesty. Very vibrant, with slicing freshness and lime zest. 2027–35. 89

Meursault Meix sous le Château

Full and ripe with honeysuckle and nutty notes. Opulent, nice density and quite creamy. 2026–30+. 88

Meursault Tessons

A touch of oak showing, which adds an extra sweetness to this already very alluring wine, which has an unusually exotic fragrance in 2022, with notes of orange and dried apricot. It purrs onto the finish, which is very nicely sustained. 2028–35. 91

Monthelie

Fresh, pure, and straight, with nice tension. Nervy. Crisply edged with a citrusy, slicing finish. 2026–30+. 86

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Referts

Ripe, peachy fruit on the nose, with a hint of cinnamon. Rich up-front, with a hint of pineapple. It’s full but not at all heavy and super-juicy. Plenty of vibrant, rather splashing acidity and energy on the finish. 2028–36. 94

Red

Bourgogne

A vibrant, red raspberry aroma. Twist of spice on the attack. Juicy palate, very fresh and bright. Lovely, red and crunchy fruit. Just yummy. As good as a Bourgogne gets. 2026–28. 85

Auxey-Duresses

From the village lieu-dit Largillas. Juicy blackcurrants; nice, tart freshness, with an aniseed bite and soft, supple tannins. Jolly good. 2026–30. 86

Monthelie Premier Cru Les Clous

Surprisingly delicate red-fruit aroma. A light, herbaceous crunch. Narrow and light palate. Fresh line of acidity to finish. 2026–30. 87

DOMAINE GÉNOT-BOULANGER

“Unexpected freshness, if you look at the season, the heat and drought,” says Guillaume Lavollée. “We could not expect the level of balance. In comparison with 2020, more concentration but with the same balance, but we don’t feel the heat, which is always my fear. 2019 is not my favorite vintage. I prefer lighter, more precise, and more delicate vintages, and I think 2022 is this kind of vintage.”

Lavollée would like one to believe that Beaune Montrevenots, an awkward climat on the Pommard side, is transformed by the warmer summers. And I agree it’s improved by them, even if it will never represent the best of Beaune. Lavollée’s decision to plant the village parcel of Lulunne, located above Montrevenots, with Chardonnay, was a good one.

Beaune En Lulunne

“A secret plot on the border with Pommard.” At the top of the hill, but south-facing in the combe, so often in shadow. Limestone soil with natural springs. Not picked until September 11 (so it would not be such a good place in a cool vintage). Melon aroma. Citrus and salty. Straight and savory on the finish. A great introduction to the range. Drink dates?86–87

Puligny-Montrachet Nosroyes

Noyer means walnut tree in old French. The walnut tree likes limestone. Straight, clipped, tight edges, and it pings onto the finish. 2026–30. 88–89

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières

From the Au Chaniot lieu-dit beside Cailleret. Rich and dark, this has graphite minerality, and is particularly punchy. Intense and serious. Lovely, long finish. Really rather good. 2028–38. 95

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Garenne

This is from Génot-Boulanger’s highest plot, in the southern part of Garenne next to En Remilly. East-facing. Very poor limestone soil, which didn’t suffer as much as expected from drought. Lean, narrow, and savory, with a dry, saline finish. 2026–30. 91

Red

Beaune Premier Cru Montrevenots

Ripe-strawberry aroma. Soft and rounded; plump and airy, with an attractive, dry, chalky, and savory note to finish. Sweet and salty. It has a fragile feel. 2026–30. 89

Pommard Premier Cru Clos Blanc

Appealing aromatic. Strawberries, white pepper, and orange zest. It becomes quite strict and sappy on the mid-palate. The tannins are firmer and more interesting here. Some grip. Good freshness. 2026–30+. 92

Corton Grand Cru Les Combes

Spicy, rich aroma. Rounded and rich, but quite piquant and zesty. Lots of fruit, but not heavy. Straightens through the palate. A forward and charming Corton. 2027–34. 94

VINCENT GIRARDIN

The range here is sourced from 173 acres (70ha), 42 acres (17ha) of which are domaine and managed organically. Girardin is better known for its whites, but the reds are good, too. “I am not a big fan of tannins,” says Eric Germain. “No strong tannins. That’s not my goal. The aroma is very Pinot in 2022. It is fresh and very well defined—raspberry, blackberry. The tannins are soft and there is density. A very great vintage. Very pure wines.”

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Blanchot Dessus

Punchy attack. Sappy and savory, nutty and broad. Firm and powerful, with a dark, earthy, mineral finish. 2028–35+. 94–95

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Morgeot

From 1.5 acres (0.6ha) of 80-year-old vines in lieu-dit Fairendes, at the top of the limestone slope where it joins Ruchottes, with very little topsoil. Orange and ginger aroma. Juicy and generous; rich, for sure, but not fat. Well-channeled, to a somewhat saline finish. 2027–35. 93

Meursault Casse-Têtes

From the most northerly parcel, which is very stony. Light, apricot aroma. Springs onto the palate. Good tension and bright, sharp, glinting minerals, with a fennel note to finish. 2026–29. 88

Meursault Tillets

From 35-year-old estate vines with court noué, which produce only half a normal yield, so the alcohol is always higher. Intense citrus aroma, with a concentrated, rich profile for Tillets. Lemon pith on the zesty, bitter palate. Taut, with an almond-kernel note to the end. 2026–30+. 89–90

Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes

From the Dessus section, and partly domaine vines, with court noué, on just 20 inches (50cm) of topsoil. Golden, generous, white peach, and marzipan. Succulent. Notes of fresh hay and a rather fine, mineral tension to finish. Elegant Charmes. 2027–35. 94

Meursault Premier Cru Les Genevrières

From the Dessus section, purchased grapes from 60-year-old vines. White-flower perfume. A delicate, crystalline wine. It has white-peach fruit and charming lucidity. Transparent to the terroir. Long, saline finish. It glimmers. 2027–36. 94–95

Meursault Premier cru Les Perrières

Girardin manages the vines for this wine. It’s straight and channeled; rich but austere. Taut. A firm almond-kernel bitterness to the persistent finish. 2028–36. 94–95

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Quintessence

From Le Charlemagne. A sunny and ripe aroma, with greengage fruit; super-succulent attack. Juicy depths to the mid-palate. Ripe citrus, heading into ripe pear, with a smooth finish and a fresh note of sappy hazelnut. 2030–40. 96

Red

Monthelie Premier Cru Sur la Velle

Dark, blueberry fruit, mineral and slightly menthol, with crunchy tannins and plenty of vibrancy. 2026–30. 87

Volnay Premier Cru Champans

No whole-bunch. Ripe, red-cherry fruit aroma. Silky sweep into the palate. Charming and flowing. Soft and gently fluffy tannins encase the rounded palate. Very Volnay and very Champans. 2027–32. 93

Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chenes

This is from only 0.27 acre (0.11ha), so Germain uses 50% whole-bunch to have sufficient volume in the tank. And the whole-bunch works well here. Reserved and austere. Taut palate. Compact and unfurled. Cold cut. An athletic and assured finish. Jolly good. 2028–38. 94–95

Volnay Premier Cru Pitures

Fresh, light, and elegant. Zesty clip, lightly austere and salty. Nervy finish. 2027–30. 91

DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER

The vintage is well-represented in the two Bourgogne cuvées, where we can easily see the notion of terroir. After 2021, people say we make a lot of wine in 2022, but the yields are just normal—60hl/ha for white and 35–46hl/ha for red. This is great. We are very happy,” says Marion Javillier. This is principally a white-wine domaine, but Marion also does a very good job with red.

Bourgogne Cuvée Les Forgets

From clay soil on the Volnay side. Rich and generous attack. Full, spicy, rounded, and spicy Bourgogne, with a note of acidity and a touch of oak on the finish. 2025–28. 84

Bourgogne Cuvée Oligocène

From the Puligny side, from soil with more limestone, which has produced a more floral and high-toned wine, with a bright zip to the palate and shaley minerality. Pure and straight. 2025–30. 85–86

Meursault Clos du Cromin

This is from a very old parcel with 70-year-old vines. “A very rich clay soil, so we use no new oak.” Full, fruity, and generous, with juicy acidity and a sumptuous feel. 2026–30+. 87

Meursault Les Clousots

A blend of village lieux-dits Les Clous and Les Crotots, made since 2004. Tasted separately, Les Clous (60% of the blend) is super-mineral, pure, bright, and high-wired—I love the finish—while Les Crotots is much puncher and broader and lower toned. The blend is zesty and pure. It’s racy, straight, and has lime-flower and pithy energy. Lovely finish for a village wine. 2027–32. 91

Meursault Tête de Murger

A blend of Casse-Têtes and Murger de Monthelie. The Murger de Monthelie actually smells nicer—softish and juicy. Casse-Têtes is creamier but salty. Marion continues to do bâtonnage until May. Her father Patrick first made this blend in 1996. It’s quite luscious, generously golden and peachy. Definite creaminess and silky acidity. 2027–32. 89

Meursault Tillets

Intense citrus, with a hint of oak. Marion is using more oak (30%) here, for wine from a higher climat. Straight and sappy, with good energy and tension. Races on the finish. 2027–32. 89

Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Montchenevoy

Ripe, lemony fruit on the nose. Nicely expressive. It is juicy and vibrant. A lively note. The acidity of Savigny is always higher. 2025–30. 86

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

From south-facing Pougets, and a parcel with deeper soils, below the trees where there is a pond. A super-juicy and succulent Corton-Charlemagne. Not exotic at all. Expressively citrus. Fresh to finish. You don’t feel the effect of the vintage. Very pure. 2028–35+. 94–95

Red

Pernand-Vergelesses

Lots of dark forest fruits. It’s lightly rustic, but appealingly so. The slightly robust tannins give freshness. Generous and approachable. 2026–30+. 86

Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Bas Liards

Ripe red fruit and soft tannins. Rather silky, perfumed, and flowing. Attractive freshness and purity. 2026–30. 86–87

Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Serpentières

Ripe and super-juicy. A touch richer than the Bas Liards, with just a light crunch to the tannins. Pretty. 2026–30+. 88

DOMAINE LATOUR-GIRAUD

Jean-Pierre Latour says of the vintage: “I think we have lots of energy and precise fruit flavors. The fruity side is exceptional in 2022, and gives a very exciting and attractive side to this delicate vintage. Maybe it’s like ’92 for the fruit quality.”

Meursault Les Narvaux

From 55-year-old vines in the gorge de Narvaux. Rich, dense, and generous. Punchy. Energetic and firm, fresh and decidedly earthy, with an attractive bitterness to finish. A lovely example. 2026–32. 90–91

Meursault Premier Cru Les Bouchères

There are only two barrels, and both are second-fill. They are a little dominant for the moment, but there is an airy, delicate, and intense wine beneath, with a lively line of minerality. 2027–35. 93

Meursault Premier Cru Les Genevrières Cuvée des Pierre

From 65-year-old vines, in the oldest part of the parcel. Concentrated, with good tension, aromatic precision, and fine minerality. It’s crisply edged and focused. 2028–38. 94–95

Meursault Premier Cru Les Perrières

Straight, tight, focused, and vigorous. This grips and bites. Powerful, stony, savory finish. 2027–38. 95

Meursault Premier Cru Poruzots

Super-charged, fruity, and vigorous. Extrovert, punchy, and spicy, with drive on the finish. “It has a fruity personality I have never seen on this wine,” says Latour. “Maybe it is working with this cooper, who has helped bring out this character.” He is working with Millant, a small cooper in Meursault who made a special, low-toast, 350-liter barrel to contain the whole of this cuvée. I’d say it’s very well-tailored to express this wine. 2027–35. 94

CHÂTEAU DE MEURSAULT

Stéphane Follin-Arbelet says the 2022 style has more volume than 2018, but is not as ripe as 2020. “We are now certified organic—from the vines, to the wine, which is rare. We have 264 acres (107ha), so are now the largest organic estate in Burgundy, although others are equally convinced and in conversion.” Follin-Arbelet says they have 3% organic material in the soil (versus the more usual 1% in Burgundy), which they believe helps the vines from stressing in hotter vintages, and vines on degenerative rootstocks from dying. “We put a lot of manure in the soil, and of course we have cover crops.” Although the 2022 vintage was healthy, Follin-Arbelet still used the optical sorting table for the reds. “It was a great investment, as it works eight hours a day and never gets tired. It was spectacular in 2023, but we also used it in 2022.”

Meursault Les Grands Charrons

Rich and buttery, nutty aroma to a full and sumptuous palate, underscored with a fine and chalky cut. Fulsome and really rather good. 2026–30. 89

Meursault Premier Cru Charmes Dessus

Intense, citrus aroma; creamy macadamia nut on the attack. It’s concentrated but focuses across the palate to become much more mineral, with a silky/salty finish. Really pushes through. 2027–35. 94–95

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Champ Canet

Full, opulent, and rich. Powerful and persistent, carried on excellent sapidity. Probably the best example of this climat that I tasted in 2022. 2027–35. 95

Corton-Vergennes Grand Cru

Rich and stony. A straight and channeled palate, with a vigorous quality and an athletic finish. 2028–40. 96

Red

Savigny-lès-Beaune

Largely from higher parcels above the village. Soft and gentle red-cherry palate, with light, crunchy tannins. 2024–27. 84

Beaune Premier Cru Grèves Les Trois Journaux

With gorgeous, satin-soft tannins and intense fruit, this glides dreamily across the palate. A smooth and delicious line to the well-sustained finish. Woven with freshness. Instant harmony. What a lovely wine. 2027–35+. 94–95

Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epenots

Rich, seductive, and dense. Flows on a river of bitter chocolate. Certainly rich, but refined. It is sumptuous and deep, but deliciously fresh, to boot. 2028–35+. 95–96

Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chênes

The palate is taut and austere, with oyster-shell minerality. It has a grippy, chalky, bright, and sapid character, and is long, fresh, and biting to finish. Snaps. Very salty. Powerful yet retrained. 2028–35+. 95–96

Corton-Maréchaudes Grand Cru

Juicy, ripe, and luscious aroma and also on the attack. A generous, open-textured Corton, gurgling with fruity freshness and energy. 2027–35. 93

Corton-Rognots Grand Cru

Just one (not new) barrel of this. Dark and seductive. Deep, glossy, and generous texture. It powers onto the finish. Some grip and punch here, beneath the velvet texture. 2028–35. 96

Côte de Beaune: Auxey-Duresses

Auxey-Duresses
Auxey-Duresses. Photography by Shutterstock

DOMAINE THOMAS BATTAULT

Thomas Battault is among the new generation of young producers taking Auxey-Duresses to the next level. If only he had more of his own vineyards. He has two Auxey-Duresses domaine wines and two négoce. For the reds he has a light touch with tannins and texture, capturing a balance of sweet fruit and freshness—the Auxey-Duresses is a delight. It illustrates what can be achieved with Pinot Noir in Auxey with climate change and careful attention to tannin management. If you are unconvinced by Auxey reds, try this village-level wine and you will be converted.

White

Auxey-Duresses

A light and appetizing Auxey white, which is more savory than fruity, with fennel and lemon pith. Crisply fresh and lively, with a nutty, almondy note to finish. Spot-on. 2024–28. 84–85

Red

Auxey-Duresses

An attractive red-fruit aroma, with a slightly nutty note. Silky texture slide, with supple tannins mid-palate and lively freshness. Ripe red cherry and almonds. Bakewell-tart deliciousness. Lovely concentration for village Auxey and light crunch at the end of the palate. After a long day of tasting, this really perked me up. 2024–28. 84

Beaune Premier Cru Les Avaux

I like that Thomas has kept this Beaune light and fresh and on the crunchy side. It’s ripe but bright. There is certainly sweetness on the strike, but this is balanced with bitter morello-cherry characters, which give an attractive tart note to the finish. He has kept the tannin light. It’s very pretty, with freshness, charm, and energy. Well-made, even if it does lack a little persistence for a premier cru. 2024–28. 86

DOMAINE CREUSEFOND

Domaine Creusefond makes benchmark Auxey-Duresses. Alain works with his son Vincent. Everything is harvested by machine but, as Chantal Creusefond remarks, “this way we can start at 4am, while hand-harvesting cannot begin until 7am.” There has been new investment with temperature control in the winery to contend with the warmer harvests. The Auxey reds here have become more accessible and appealing in recent vintages—the Climat du Val is a real charmer. The Auxey whites are also spot-on.

White

Auxey-Duresses

An attractive blend of fennel and white peach on the aroma. The palate is more savory than fruity, with just a lightly creamy texture and a toasted-almond finish. It’s light and so very drinkable. 2024–28. 83

Auxey-Duresses Premier cru

From lieu-dit En Reugne, but not put on the label. Good depth and intensity. It’s really quite full-bodied for an Auxey—more like a Meursault—and the generous fruit is well-supported by lemon-pith, savory bitterness. Like the village wine, it has a more savory profile, but is quite rich and creamy with it. The best white Auxey-Duresses premier cru I tasted this vintage. 2024–30. 86

Red

Auxey-Duresses

Crunchy and fresh. Bright and energetic, with morello-cherry fruit. Combines sweetness with a touch of appealing bitterness. Pleasing but not as good as the white village wine. 2024–28. 82–83

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru

This is a blend of Les Duresses and En Reugne. Firm strike, with tannic bite, but the mid-palate texture is smooth. More savory than fruity. Licorice notes boost the sensation of freshness. Some structure here. A slightly tart, herbal character on the finish, but this is an Auxey that should repay aging. 2026–32. 86

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Climat du Val

Soft and gentle upfront with a plenitude of sweet and summery red fruit. The texture is lightly silky and supple with a refreshing crunch to finish. So charming and accessible; this is the profile to persuade any doubter that Auxey can make yummy red wine in a warm vintage. 2024–30. 85–86

DOMAINE JEAN ET GILLES LAFOUGE

Twenty-five-year-old Maxim Lafouge is working with his father Gilles and has produced attractive, well-cut whites and elegant reds in Auxey and Pommard, with lovely examples of Noizons and Premier Cru Chanlins. “In 2022, you have nice ripeness, but it’s not heavy and hot. Different from 2020, which had more alcohol. In 2022 Auxey-Duresses, we have delicate body with purity of aromatics. The picking makes all the difference.”

Aligoté

From a northwest-facing slope in front of the winery, protected by the hill. These 60- to 80-year-old vines were the last to be harvested, on September 8. Grassy, primrose aroma. Fresh, zesty, and citrus, with a bright and salty finish. 2024–26. 84

Auxey-Duresses Les Boutonniers

From brown/red soil with iron and chunky rocks. Broader, rounder, juicier, and spicier than Les Hautes, with a punchy finish. 2026–28. 84

Auxey-Duresses Les Hautes

Fresh, lime-blossom aroma. Delicate, light-footed, straight, and piquant, with lime zest and a bright snap. Delicious. 2025–28. 85

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Les Duresses de la Parapelle

Lightly opulent up-front, but it swiftly tightens, focuses, and races across the palate. Good tension. Ripe and dynamic. Straight and focused. Very savory. 2026–29. 85–86

Meursault Meix-Chavaux

From 94-year-old vines. Honeysuckle, full, rounded, and juicy. Super-succulent and generous. Alluring depth and intensity, with a richly aromatic finish. 2027–30. 89

Red

Bourgogne Côte d’Or

Juicy and accessible palate, with oodles of ripe raspberry fruit, soft tannins, and freshness. From sandy soils below Pommard. 2024–26. 83

Auxey-Duresses

“I work very hard on this to make a wine to represent Auxey-Duresess that can be drunk early.” Slim and sprightly, with red-cherry crunchiness. 2024–26. 84

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru La Chapelle

A perfumed and supple palate. More delicate texture than Climat du Val, longer and more refined. 2026–30. 86–87

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Climat du Val

Super-spicy. I like the snappy tension and firm structure. Slightly awkward, but fills out with bitter-cherry fruit and a touch of marzipan richness. 2026–30. 86

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Les Duresses

Black-cherry, spicy aroma, with a hint of rich and warm tar. Soft coal and dark, mineral freshness on the palate. Supple in texture, this sweeps on a black-chocolate finish. 2027–35. 87–88

DOMAINE MICHEL PRUNIER ET FILLE

Estelle Prunier finds 2022 like “2019, because it has very ripe fruit and a warm feeling with enough acidity, just enough to have the balance. I prefer 2022 to 2020. For reds, I think the tannins are present but finer. Like 2019, you can drink 2022 young or you can keep it.”

Auxey-Duresses

Bitter-lemon strike, to a ripe-lemon mid-palate. Appetizingly tart profile, balanced with some citrus sweetness. Straight shape, with lemon pith on the finish. 2024–27. 83–84

Auxey-Duresses Vieilles Vignes

The vines are 85 years old. “The old vines can support more new oak [30%], so I would like to differentiate them,” says Estelle. “We use several coopers. The old vines resist the stress. We see this in the green leaves, and here we still get good yields.” The parcel is in La Canée, on the flat going toward Meursault, and there are two owners. Richer and deeper, with a succulence of fruit, this also has appetizing, tart and bitter notes; orange pith blends with caramelized orange, with a riper depth of fruit and the sweetness of new oak. 2024–30. 85

Chorey-lès-Beaune Clos Margot

A clos with no walls. Ripe and peachy from the deep clay. Nicely full, rounded, and juicy. Straightforward and appealing. 2024–26. 82

Meursault Les Clous

From a parcel under the hut in the vineyard, so mid-way up. 30% new oak, which this cuvée hoovers up. Races onto the palate. I love the exuberant energy, combined with sweet citrus fruit, chased up with a straight and chalky intensity. This sings. Tip-top. 2026–32. 89–90

Red

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

Slapping, juicy-ripe Pinot, but not only fruity, as this also has tannic backbone, so it’s sappy and fresh, to boot. Super-accessible and very appealing. From a 5-acre (2ha) vineyard up on the plateau above Auxey-Duresses, “so we keep the freshness,” says Estelle. Certainly do. The white is on the slightly more south/southeast-facing part. It was planted 40 years ago by her grandfather. The red is on cordon, to restrict the yields, as the rootstock is SO4. I like this Bourgogne. Why didn’t I taste the white? 2024–26. 82–83

Auxey-Duresses

Super-sweet aroma morphs into a rich and juicy palate. No lack of generosity here. The plentiful tannins, which are ripe, have a refreshing, slightly rugged crunch to lift the palate (50% whole-bunch). Honest and appealing. 2025–28. 83–84

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru

A blend (as grapes) of Climat du Val, more south-facing and limestone, with flat Les Grands Champs and Bas des Duresses, which have more clay. 50% whole-bunch. I like the smooth texture. There is a lively aromatic note; spicy characters combine with slightly tarry asphalt (in a good way). It has a light bite and fresh, cool graphite to finish. I like this minty note. 2026–32. 86

DOMAINE DES TERRES DE VELLE

“The vines suffered less in 2022 than in 2018 or 2020, which is why you find better balance in the wine,” says Sophie Laronze. “It was hot, but not as extreme as 2020 or 2018. There is some of the richness of 2020, but it’s better balanced. Maybe 2015 had similar density.”

Auxey-Duresses Les Hautes

From a village lieu-dit on a plateau that has sunshine all day. Melon aroma, succulent strike, and gently rounded, focusing to a tight and very salty finish. 2024–27. 84

Meursault

This is mostly Les Crotots and Grands Charrons, plus one third of young-vine Luchets, which really seems to bring something dynamic to the party. Ripe, crème brûlée aroma, while the palate is much zestier and springs onto the finish. A lively Meursault. 2026–30. 88

Monthelie Les Sous-Roches

From a steep slope and very limestone soil. There was no 2021, but the vines bounced back, productive and energetic, in 2022. High-toned aroma. Vibrant, high-wired, and nervy palate, but with no lack of intensity. Pings on the fennel and stony finish. 2025–28. 86

Chassagne-Montrachet La Platière

From youngish vines in deep soil below Morgeot. Ripe yellow-plum and cinnamon aroma. Broad, earthy, and supercharged with fruit. Bling and overt. Quite chunky. 2026–30. 87–88

Chassagne-Montachet Premier Cru Les Chaumées

A cool and upright aroma. 2019 was the first vintage for this wine. “Right on the rock, and it’s hot. Difficult for us to understand; we had to take the earth back up the slope, because it had shifted down because of plowing and the roots were exposed.” Juicy and fruity strike. Zips into a racy and tight palate, which is super-mineral and saline on the finish. I like this. 2026–32. 92

Puligny-Montrachet

This is mostly from Les Noyers Bret, with one sixth from Levrons, harvested and pressed together. 60-year-old vines. More restrained and focused. There is texture, but it’s straight and mineral, with a finish quite a lot longer than that of their other village wines. 2026–30. 90

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Referts

From old vines, 55 years old. Glossy, greengage aroma. Much more vibrant than their Charmes, with a firm and sapid bite. Yes, it’s broad and rich, but it has such energy and freshness to finish. 2028–38. 94

Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Aux Vergelesses

From 40-year-old vines next to the forest, on a white soil with a lot of limestone. Rich citrus up-front, with savory grip and concentration to a firm and sappy finish. 2026–30. 88

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

From 65-year-old vines in Le Charlemagne and 35-year-old vines in En Charlemagne. Firm and intense. Direct and energetic, this has an appealing, pithy, and zesty cut, with a good balance of richness and colder savory notes. Bitter freshness on the well-sustained finish. 2030–40. 95–96

Red

Bourgogne Pinot Noir

Lovely, spicy, rich aroma. Juicy, generous, and succulent. Yummy summer fruits, and fresh to finish. Joyous wine. Splashing. 2024–26. 83

Auxey-Duresses Les Closeaux

Redcurrant aroma, with a light and leafy palate; delicate, crisp, and crunchy. It’s on the herbaceous side, with a light, chalky line giving a touch of austerity, but I cannot help liking this slightly terse, red-currant and white-pepper wine. 2025–29. 84–85

Volnay Ez Blanches

From a village parcel above Clos des Chênes. Morello cherry, upright aroma, to a tight, biting, and crunchy crisp palate. Finishes with sour-cherry fruit, and the tannins are light and delicate. “We try not to extract too much; it is a good marriage of the ripe vintage and the terroir.” 2025–30. 87–88

Volnay Premier Cru Le Roncerets

Rich, sweet, summer fruits, a leathery and unctuous aroma. Broad, dense, and chunky, with the tannins creating the freshness for balance. Pushy and punchy wine. 2026–32. 94

Côte de Beaune: Blagny

DOMAINE CHAPELLE DE BLAGNY

Etienne de Brechard is experimenting with a new cooper for him—Dargaud & Jaeglé: “The purity of the wine shows through the new oak.” There is a little more new oak than usual (20–30%), as there was less juice than expected when placing the order for barrels in June.

Bourgogne Aligoté

From L’Ormeau, a warm area with very old vines, which produced two barrels in 2022. Floral aroma, pure and straight, minty, with a light lime crisp to finish. Light-bodied, lemon balm. A very pretty Aligoté. 2024–27. 83–84

Meursault Premier Cru Les Ravelles

From 50-year-old vines in the highest parcel at the domaine. “Little springs bring water from the wood, which is retained by the clay, making it difficult to work in wet years, but ideal in dry 2022.” Light, citrus, floral aroma. Elegant and pure. This light-bodied wine is neat as a pin. Piano-wire profile, with a lively, fresh, glinting finish. 2026–32. 91

Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru La Pièce sous le Bois

De Brechard sells off fruit from the younger vines, but those used for this wine are much older and planted on the shallower soil. Four barrels. Ripe and glossy lemon. This has a chalky bite and sweet-citrus freshness. 2026–32. 92

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Hameau de Blagny

From 2.5 acres (1ha) on a gentle slope below the winery. This sunny and sheltered place was very warm in 2022.Expansive aromatics, with dried apricot, nutmeg, and star anise. The palate is also spicy and full. The exotic aroma and generosity are underscored with an earthy, graphite, mineral note. The sapid touch of oak adds freshness to the finish. 2026–33. 92

Red

Blagny Premier Cru Sous le Dos d’Ane

Ripe currants, black and red, with an appealing peppery, minty aroma. Juicy. Attractively crunchy tannins balance the sweet cordial fruit on the palate. Notes of oregano, which is not whole-bunch, but the skins were very thick. De Brechard pushed the cap down gently and only once. Attractive. 2026–32. 87

Côte de Beaune: Puligny-Montrachet

DOMAINE JACQUES CARILLON

Jacques Carillon started and finished the harvest in August. He finds 2022 a beautifully balanced vintage. “Big, round, and full, like 2018. The acidity is about the same, but it is not quite as rich as 2018.”

Puligny-Montrachet

A blend of 11 parcels. White-peach fruit on the aroma and palate. Lively balance, deliciously ripe and fragrant fruit, and zesty minerality. Straight, clipped, and energetic. Whips along on a fine and saline finish. Benchmark stuff. 2027–35. 90–91

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Champ-Canet

Ripe apricot, a rather indulgent aroma, then it glides into a silky, succulent, and oh, so creamy palate. Exotic spices carry the finish. 2028–35. 93–94

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Perrières

From long (650-ft [200m]) rows, with thin topsoil and rock at the top. Nutty, upright, and concentrated aroma. Punchy, earthy, and dense, with lots of freshness and clearly a muscular grip. Grabs the finish. 2028–38. 94

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Referts

Fulsome, golden, peachy aroma, with some spice, nutmeg, cocoa, and cumin. The palate is broad, deep, and succulently juicy. Lovely intensity. Freshness and cold minerals come through on the finish. An excellent finish to this Referts. The best I tasted in this vintage. 2028–40. 96

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Full-bodied but airy palate, with a rich, floral quality, which focuses to become very pure. I preferred this to many a Bâtard-Montrachet I tasted, for its long and mineral line. It’s elegant and intense, with a brilliance of smooth minerals on the fab finish. 2030–40. 98

JEAN CHARTRON

“We started harvesting at 6.30am and stopped at 2pm. If you cut when it’s warm, the grapes could be 30ºC [86ºF], and you increase the oxidative process and lose aromas. I used more 500-liter barrels for the entry-level wine, as I didn’t want to lose freshness. A little less new oak generally in 2022. Always medium-toast. I have experimented with glass but prefer oak for the exchange.” Chartron is convinced by Diam, under which all the range is bottled, following ten years of experiments. He compares 2022 with 2017. “2017 was also very charming and showed beautifully early. Maybe 2022 is a little fresher than 2017.”

Bourgogne Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes

Lively citrus aroma. Zesty lime attack, lightly plump middle, with ripe floral notes and a hint of nutmeg. All in 500-liter barrels. Appealing. 2025–29. 83

Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Vieilles Vignes

From Nantoux, on both sides of the slope. 500-liter barrels. Fresh, dewy cucumber and slicing lemon freshness. Sprightly, prancing palate. A twist of bitter lemon to finish. It’s lively. 2024–27. 84

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Benoîtes

Most of this is from a lieu-dit under Morgeot, but one quarter is from young vines in Cailleret. Full and ripe up-front. Good density on the mid-palate and savory, earthy bite on the finish. 2027–32. 88

Pernand-Vergelesses

Largely from Belles Filles on the warmer slope of the valley. Straight and slicing on the palate, with attractive bitterness. Quite terse. Not a warm wine, despite the hot summer and location. Retains its pithy Pernand identity. 2025–30. 86

Rully Montmorin

This top-of-the-hill parcel has thin soil and is windy. The wind dehydrated the grapes, giving lowish yields of 38hl/ha instead of 50+hl/ha. Chartron saw more stress here than in Puligny or St-Aubin. Lemony aroma, but more tropical on the palate. Candied pineapple, with sappy ginger freshness to balance. Spicy finish. The balance of pièce and 500-liter barrel works well. 2025–28. 85

St-Aubin Premier Cru Les Murgers des Dents du Chien

Precise, high-toned white-flower aroma; curiously, a delicate melon aromatic on the palate—maybe from the oak—but the palate is straight, and there is light, cool, and fine salinity to finish. 2027–32. 87–88

St-Aubin Premier Cru Les Perrières

Generous up-front, but it fizzles under the ripe citrus fruit with chalky minerality and has a bite to the finish. 2027–32. 86

Puligny-Montrachet

Upright floral aroma. Slides into the palate on perfumed orange blossom. Supple, juicy, and flowing. Delicately fresh but gorgeously ripe. It ripples into an elegant finish. Delightful village wine. 2027–32+. 90

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos du Cailleret

Compact, dense. The richly textural warmth of the vintage is held in a cold grasp. It’s both punchy and reserved. The prolonged finish has a slick of gloss but finishes on stone. 2030–40. 96

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de la Pucelle (Monopole)

Gorgeous honey and citrus aroma. An elegant and flowing palate, with depth and precision. Finely textured, with aromatic persistence. Lucid and balletic. 2027–35. 95

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières

Immediately there is lithe muscle and energy. Contained, compact, and earthy. Savory and somewhat grippy. There is textural richness, which envelops the core and it pushes home. 2028–38. 94–95

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Broad and sumptuous palate, with exotic fruits and spicy aromatics. Just hits the balance of freshness and ripeness. It’s luscious and deep, with a quite glorious opulence on the finish, where it lingers enticingly. 2032–40+. 97

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Clos de Chevaliers

Very focused and reserved. Deep, tight, precipitous palate. Imagine looking into a cold and deep valley, which disappears into the distance. That’s what it tastes like. 2032–45+. 98–99

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

From En Charlemagne. Uber-citrus, super-zesty, and intense. Straight and taut. Twang to the bow. Shaley minerality and fizzling energy on the persistent finish. Really rather good. 2030–40+. 96

Red

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de Caillerets

One pièce fermented in a 500-liter barrel with some whole-bunch. Gorgeous red summer fruit. Succulent and juicy, with soft, velvety tannins. Spicy, generous, and really fresh to finish. 2028–35. 92–93

DOMAINE ALAIN CHAVY

Alain is now working with his son Corentin, who describes the 2022 this way: “Like 2020 for freshness and tension, and like 2021 for the aromatics of grapefruit and the fruit with a little bitterness. I think you can start the premiers crus after ten years and they should last for 20 or more.” They use cultured yeast “for less risk and more precision” and one third 400-liter casks for all appellations. Pristine flight.

Road sign for Puligny Montrachet in the Burgundy region of France. The small village noted among wine connoisseurs for its very fine white wines from Chardonnay grapes. AdobeRGB colorspace.

Bourgogne

Nicely ripe, fresh, and juicy, with smooth minerality. In 2022, it has a smidgen of new oak. 2024–28. 84

St-Aubin Premier Cru En Remilly

Lively grapefruit and lime aroma. Ripe on the attack, with a hint of candied citrus. Straight, pure with shimmery minerality, and a dusting of chalk to finish. Retains its nervy and delicate line in this warm vintage. 2027–32. 88

Puligny-Montrachet

Crisp edges to this straight, pure, and singing palate. Vibrant. 2026–30. 87

Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes

Charmes has a light-footed and marked mineral feel, with a touch more intensity than the village blend. Straight, pure, and rather refined. 2026–32. 87–88

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Champs Gain

I like the racy and bright tension to this Champs Gain. The best I tasted—the most nervy and crispy edged. A taut, piano-wire wine. Flighty, even in this vintage. 2027–35. 93

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Clavoillon

White rose-petal aroma, which is quite delicate. The palate is voluptuous up-front, but tightens in to become notably savory and saline. 2028–35+. 93–94

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières

It’s mineral and taut. Chalky grip and intention. Straight. Clipped. Bites on the finish with chalky sapidity. A cold and persistent finish. 2028–35. 95

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles

Rows on the Bâtard side. Super-silky and supple slide into the palate. It’s elegant and finely woven, with a fluid and satin ribbon of fruit on the finish. And a touch of red rose petal just at the end. 2028–38. 94–95

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

From a parcel next to Demoiselles. One barrel (Chassin) in 2020. Quite oaky on the aroma, but the palate is powerful and intense, focused, super-chalky, and vibrant. Shivers with minerals on the super-persistent and salty finish. Super-sapid. Very savory. 2030–40. 97

DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS CHAVY

Chavy is progressively moving all his production into 350-liter barrels. “In the hot vintages, the wine is more mineral, fresh, and complex than from traditional barrels.” 25–30% new oak. He chaptalized a little to achieve 12.5–13% ABV, as many premier cru vineyards stressed and blocked. “I compare 2022 with 2019. The wines have the richness and gras of the 2019 with less alcohol, but with the same acidity and quality as the 2019.”

Bourgogne

Glossy peachy aroma. Neatly rounded, fresh, and brightly citrus, a touch mineral to finish. Very attractive. 2025–28. 84

Puligny-Montrachet

From 12 parcels across 6 acres (2.5ha). Lightly silky. There’s golden ripeness to this straight and mineral, neatly edged palate. 2026–30. 86–87

Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes

From a 1.2-acre (0.5ha) parcel. Lighter soil here than other parcels with less clay. Plentiful oak and buttery, nutty richness on the aroma, while the palate is generous on the attack, rounded on the mid-palate, with ripe white peach and some floral notes. A pure and mineral finish. 2027–35. 88

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Clavoillon

Generous and alluring, ripe-peach and yellow-plum aroma. Creamy, seductive, slightly sumptuous palate, with smooth minerality that stretches out on the finish. Luscious fruit and good typicité from the 70-year-old vines. 2028–35+. 94

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières

An elegant, straight, neatly defined, and taut Folatières. Intensity and a firm, salty mineral bite to the nicely prolonged finish. 2028–35. 94

PAUL CHAVY

Paul Chavy works with his father Jean-Louis Chavy, but also makes a range of his négociant wines. He has seven cuvées in 2022, including three reds.

White

St-Romain

Bought-in juice from village lieu-dit La Périère. Juicy, lightly rounded up-front, and lime-fresh. Straight and vibrant. Finishes with lime flower. Appealing. 2025–28. 83–84

Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru En Caradeux

Spicy, juicy, and vibrant attack. Plenty of freshness and some sapidity. Punchy. A touch earthy to finish. 2027–32. 87

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Citrus aroma and white-pear fruit on the palate. It’s taut and buttoned down. Ripe and intense; nice tension, fresh and savory. Very well-balanced, and it’s therefore no surprise that this is a blend of Le Charlemagne and En Charlemagne. 2030–40. 95

Red

Aloxe-Corton

Dark, juicy forest fruits. Chunky, thick tannins, with an earthy, robust character. Honest. Great BBQ wine. 2026–28. 83–84

DOMAINE THOMAS-COLLARDOT

A small family-run wine domaine of 6 acres (2.5ha), managed by Jacqueline Collardot since 2010. The vineyards came through Henri Chavy on the maternal side and Maurice Thomas on the paternal side. Managed by Jacqueline’s father, Pierre Thomas, until 1992. They were leased to Philippe and Romaric Chavy until 2010, when Jacqueline got them back. She sold the juice for five years, working the vineyard organically until her vines and finances were in a position to start making her own wine. She was joined by her son Matthieu in 2018 and they will have organic certification for the 2023 vintage.

Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères

A rich and round palate, which shows excellent density and rich minerality for a village wine and pushes into a nicely persistent finish. Very good. 2026–32. 89–90

Puligny-Montrachet Les Houlières

Juicy and generous, with a soft and creamy mineral note to finish. 2026–28. 87

Puligny-Montrachet La Rue aux Vaches

Punchy, with a fresh, pithy edge on the finish. Lime zest and lime flower. Very attractive. 2026–32. 87–88

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières

From lieu-dit Au Chaniot next to En la Richarde. Attractive tension and shivering minerality. It’s vibrant and has an enticing juxtaposition of richness and cold grip. Powerful and long on the finish. 2028–35+. 95

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Hameau de Blagny

From a sheltered and stony climat, this tastes richly aromatic. Succulent attack. Spicy and salty; quite exotic, but with miso minerality on the finish. 2027–32. 92

Côte de Beaune: Chassagne-Montrachet

BRUNO COLIN

Bruno Colin worked organically in 2022. “I do not want to be certified. Around the flowering, in a difficult vineyard, I may want to use a systemic spray.” He would start drinking the 2022s from four to nine years, and says the best will age for 20. No pigeage for the reds, only remontage and rack and return. “2022 has fruit and intensity, with freshness and purity. Better than 2020. Like the 2014 whites for the precision of the appellations, but with more richness. The reds are like 2009.”

Bourgogne Aligoté

Fermented in stainless-steel tank, then aged in some older oak. Fresh, citrus, and pure, with grapefruit pithiness. Tip-top. 2024–28. 84

Bourgogne Chardonnay

This is a blend of domaine and négoce fruit from Santenay. One third oak, the balance in stainless steel. With the new winery, they can wait until later to bottle. This has a light lemon and melon aroma. Very pure and just slightly apricot, with floral notes and a vibrant, fresh finish. 2026–30. 84

St-Aubin Premier Cru Les Charmois

Rich, peachy aroma and red rose petal. Sumptuous fruit from these vines planted in 1959. Rich aromatics on the palate, rounded with a blade of freshness on the finish. 2027–32. 88

Chassagne-Montrachet

A blend from nine parcels. Interesting nose, with ripe citrus and spicy notes, and a touch of caramel, from the oak maybe. Hazelnut, frangipani, and honeysuckle on the palate. Richly round, with more oak present, and a nicely sappy finish. Well-balanced, fruity, and floral village wine. 2027–32. 88

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Blanchot Dessus

Colin owns roughly one quarter of the total 3 acres (1.2ha). Broad, dense, and compact. Savory grip. Punches into the very well-sustained finish. Very good in 2022. 2028–40. 96

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Cailleret

Very lemony and fruity up-front. There is a breadth to the palate and cool, savory cut to the finish. One 350-liter barrel. 2028–38. 95

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Chaumées

Fresh, pure, and floral. Good energy, with a sweet, smooth, wet-stone finish. Flows with ease. 2027–35. 92

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Maltroie

Yellow plums and greengages. Super-juicy and energetic strike. Opulently fruity, with a broad, full, and generously rounded body. An exuberant and extravagant character. Finishes fresh, with earthy minerality. A lovely example of this climat. 2027–38. 94

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Remilly

En Remilly stressed and blocked; the wine reached only 12.6% ABV, and has a slightly herbal note on the nose. The palate is straight, with chalky, salty notes. It’s super-savory and rather persistent. 2027–38. 94

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Vergers

Smooth and succulent attack. Splashing fruits mid-palate. A little tropical, but fresh. Papaya spritzed with lime freshness. Engagingly energetic wine, with a hint of toasted cumin bitterness to finish, probably from the oak. 2027–35. 92

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Truffière

Surprisingly, there was no stress here in 2022. Zesty up-front. Very Puligny. Focused, with a light quartz edge, but really it’s the intense floral character that carries this wine. Finishes in a cloud of exotic aromas. 2027–35+. 94

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Focused and super-intense. Cold grip, with tension and vibration. I like the almost-bitter finish; it’s very persistent. 2030–2040. 98–99

Reds

Santenay

Very fruity, with soft tannins. Accessible and attractive. 2025–28. 85

Maranges Premier Cru Fussières

Super red-fruit aroma. I like the austerity, chalky tannins, and bitter, morello-cherry fruit. 40% whole-bunch. What a good job. 2027–35. 89–90

Santenay Premier Cru Gravières

This is more tannic, with a slight rusticity. Appealing depth and fruity intensity. It’s dark and rich, with forest fruits. 2027–32. 88

DOMAINE RICHARD FONTAINE-GAGNARD

Céline Fontaine was ready to pick from August 20, “but the veraison was very long because of the stress, so we decided to wait. Murée, in the center of the village, blocked; picked last, it was just 12.1% ABV, while Criots was 12.8% ABV. The whites were not as ripe as we imagined. All around 12.4–12.6% ABV. Chardonnay in 2022 is very concentrated, with not much juice—around 50hl/ha, which is exactly what we like. It was very dry, but just a little shower made all the difference, and I was amazed in Morgeot by golden berries. The Pinot ripened more easily than the Chardonnay. Pinot Noir is reacting better with warm vintages; it keeps its acidity, while Chardonnay loses it. In the reds, you can imagine the warm summer. It has shoulders, but charm.” Céline has really improved the reds here. “I thought the whites would be like 2020, but we had more malic in 2022, so finally the acidity is better in 2020. The 2020 is more serious. 2022 is more charming. The reds are like 2019, for the easy ripeness, but the structure is more like 2020. What impresses me about this vintage is the concentration.”

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Boudriotte

Juicy and ripe, with luscious citrus fruit and fresh acidity. Finishes with some sapidity. 2027–32. 93

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Chevenottes

Juicy and easy. Quite tropical, with fresh, splashing pineapple notes. Extrovert, with a loose texture and easy-going feel. 2027–32. 90

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot

Ripe, peachy aroma, with a rounded, succulent, and generous palate. It’s smooth and alluring and nicely balanced, and there’s freshness on the finish. Inviting. 2028–35. 92–93

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Romanée

Intense and very well-balanced wine, from old vines and millerandage. Very low-yielding, so they will be removed. What a shame… for this is a standout wine. Intense, focused, bright, salty, and even in this vintage, racy on the finish. Shivers with salt. 2027–35. 95

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Vergers

Candied-citrus aroma. Fresh attack. This has good tension, minerality, and salinity. 2027–25. 94

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Concentrated and rich. Compact. Broad. Lovely persistence. A big step up on the Criots-Bâtard. Flexes lots of muscle; plenty of density and very good length. 2030–40+. 97

Le Montrachet Grand Cru

No new oak. Intense. Much more sophisticated. Pure and silky and extremely well-sustained. Excellent precision and persistence. 2030–40+. 98–99

Reds

Chassagne-Montrachet

“The most beautiful grapes in the village. There was more juice in the fruit, which did not suffer from sunburn.” A blend of six parcels. Cherry cordial. Juicy and fresh, with a crackle of tannin and a lightly bitter bite. 2026–30+. 87

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos St-Jean

Soft and supple, this glides with ripe red-fruit generosity to a smooth finish. 2027–30+. 89

Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chênes

Fine-textured, light, crisp, and crunchy; nicely ripe, with summer fruits, warm strawberries, and an aromatic finish. A somewhat delicate Clos des Chênes. 2027–35. 93

DOMAINE JEAN-NOËL GAGNARD

Asked for vintage comparisons with 2022, Caroline Lestimé replies: “2018 for the freshness and fruit. 2016 for the texture, but silkier and lighter than the velvet of 2016.”

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Sous Eguisons

From vines above St-Aubin, toward Rochepot. Zesty, bright, and energetic. 2024–30. 84

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Blanchot Dessus

Broad, dense, grippy, and powerful, with a persistent and sapid finish. Delivers. 2030–40. 96

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Caillerets

Focused and tight, with salty, savory intensity. Very sappy. More linear and elegant than Blanchot Dessus. It is pure and refined, with a lovely translucency to the terroir. Graphite minerals to the finish. 2030–40. 96

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Champs-Gains

Greengage aroma, moving to an unctuous palate. Laps up the new oak, one of two barrels. This is a rich and generous wine, with sweet acidity to balance the ripe fruit. It’s showy and just a great crowd-pleaser. I selected this wine among the many lovely wines at this domaine for its spot-on typicité. 2027–32. 93

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Chaumées

Bright, zesty, and pure. It is super-citrus. Ripe and elegant. Tight and racy, with a slim and high-toned line and a mineral finish. A lovely example of this climat. 2027–35. 92–93

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de la Maltroye

Ripe and juicy mid-palate, with an attractive line of acidity and smooth minerality, which swoops under the rounded palate to carry the finish. Rather an elegant Maltroie. 2027–35. 93

Red

Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Cuvée L’Estimée

From many different parcels. Super-fruity and juicy, with red-cherry exuberance and crunchy tannins. Yummy. 2026–30. 86

Santenay Premier Cru Clos de Tavannes

A silky, rather finely textured wine, with ripe but fresh red-cherry fruit. A hint of bitterness gives a light bite to the finish. 2026–32. 88

Burgundy

Vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet. Photography by Shutterstock.

DOMAINE HEITZ-LOCHARDET

Armand Heitz at Heitz-Lochardet replanted many vines in 2016 and 2018. In the regional vineyards, the rows are 7.2ft (2.2m) wide and the vines are 5.5ft (170cm) tall. It’s machine-harvested: “easier to manage than workers.” The white ferment starts in tank with indigenous yeast before moving to barrel, some of which come from Gauthier Frères in the Loire, chosen for their floral and less vanilla character. Reds have 100% whole-bunch. There’s pigeage to start, to give some juice, and afterwards only remontage, once or twice a day. Bottled in November. I found the whole-bunch rather overpowering, but it’s early days, and maybe it will settle in.

Meursault Les Gruyaches

“Charmes-like soil. We keep humidity here, so it’s never stressed. Although the soil is humid, we don’t get pressure from mildew.” Focused and vigorous. Straight palate with clipped edges. Good tension for a village wine. 2027–32. 90

Meursault Vireuils

A light, precise, and straight wine. Sparking minerality and a fine piano-wire profile. Very well-balanced. No extremes of the vintage. No overly concentrated or overly salty notes. Delicate. Lovely example. 2027–32. 90

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Chenevottes

Juicy and vivacious. Simple, fruity, and juicy. No new oak. Easy. 2026–32. 88

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Maltroie

From behind the house, almost in the garden, and three parcels planted in 2016, 2004, and the 1970s. Deep soil, but it dries very quickly for some reason. Juicy and rounded, with notes of dried pineapple. Quite well-balanced, with a touch of fresh and earthy minerality finish. 2027–2032. 91–92

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot

A blend from Petit Clos and Tête du Clos, so my expectations are high. Actually, this delivers. It is rich and compact, with a cold undertow and good tension. Energy, bite, and a fresh grip to the finish. 2027–35. 93–94

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Great intensity and focus. Vivid juxtaposition of cold and warm on the palate. The new oak is well-suited, although one of the two barrels is new. Chiseled edges. Super-precise and energetic to finish. 2030–40. 97–98

Red

Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Poutures (Monopole)

“Easy to work, this soil. Not too wet. Not too heavy. A cooler place, but the clos gives it a warm microclimate.” Next to the church. Ripe, strawberry-rich aroma, with a hint of oregano. Soft and generous up-front. Lovely fruit, but rather rustic tannins. 2026–32. 88

Pommard Premier Cru Pézerolles

Black satin fruit to this seductive palate, which has herbal freshness. For now, the whole-bunch dominates the elegance of this terroir, but the shape and structure is very Pézerolles. 2027–32. 90

Volnay Premier Cru Taillepieds

A very ripe Taillepieds, edging into black fruit, but the whole-bunch works better here than in the rest of the range, as it goes in the same direction and does not overpower. It has a green herbal note, but the terroir comes back on the finish, which is clipped. 2027–35. 91

DOMAINE RENÉ LAMY-PILLOT

“The second warmest vintage since 1947,” says Sébastien Caillat. “The rainy June gave good water reserves, and the vines were in good shape. Since 2003, we have picked nine times in August: in 2003, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2015, 2017, 2018, 2020, and 2022.

“My pHs are 3.15–3.18 for the whites. Maybe because of my long, hard press or because in my cold cellar the salts crystallize and my pHs decline. It could be because we use more copper and sulfur, because we work organically. Maybe that’s not the best thing to say, but it’s probably part of this.” (Caillat works organically but is not certified.) The St-Aubin whites are quite exotic. The reds here continue to improve and refine in texture.

St-Aubin Les Pucelles

Lightly perfumed. Ripe yellow plum, with light acidity. Warm and exotically spicy aromatics to finish. 2026–30. 85

St-Aubin Premier Cru Le Charmois

Peachy ripe and scented. Plumply rounded, with a pink floral character, and smooth with silky acidity. 2026–32. 87–88

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Morgeot

An attractive bitter tannic bite to this white Morgeot. Rich but firm, and the phenolic note creates a good balance with the rich breadth of the palate. Earthy to finish. 2027–32+. 92

Le Montrachet Grand Cru

Exotic and opulent Montrachet. Intense, rich, and powerful. I like the phenolic grip, which comes with their harder press. This is necessary to offset the aromatic and fruit extravagance. Assertive and prolonged finish. 2030–40+. 95–96

Red

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Boudriotte

Spicy, fresh, and piquant with quite a tart tannic note. Very crunchy. Bitter almond kernel. Sappy finish. Energetic. 2027–32. 91–92

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos St-Jean

Rides on a relaxed palate of red fruit and smooth, easy tannins. Supple and engaging. 2027–32. 88–89

DOMAINE LAMY-CAILLAT

Sébastien Caillat makes the Lamy-Caillat wines in a reserved and grippy phenolic style for long aging. The Lamy-Pillot wines are fruitier and more forward, but there is a slight shift in the style of the premiers crus toward the Lamy-Caillat this year. Probably because he is using the vertical press on these, too, now. A very good flight.

Bourgogne

Fresh, bright, zesty, and savory. Lively, with good intensity and vibrancy. Top-notch. 2026–29. 86

St-Aubin En l’Ebaupin

From a south/southwest-facing village parcel with a slope of 38%. Sébastien Caillat says there is a marked drop in temperature at night, and the soil is a mix of clay, limestone, and stone. It’s easy to plow and well-drained. Ripe and yet focused, with an earthy, mineral quality and a fresh and light mineral thread. Promising. 2026–30. 86

Chassagne-Montrachet

From the lower part of Pot Bois, just above the top end of Caillerets, and 60-year-old vines. I like the tension, sharp minerality, and focus. Good intensity and a firm finish. There is a clean-cut, well-edged, and decisive feel to this village wine. Impressive Chassagne. 2027–32+. 90

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets

Compact and layered. Tight, firm, and cool. Savory and yet super-sweet from the glossy textural richness. The finish is assured, persistent, and rather impressive. 2028–37. 95

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Champs Gains

Greengage aromas. Spicy and ripe, but has obvious energy and some grip. Fresh to finish. I like the phenolic bitterness, which cuts through the ripe textural quality. 2027–32. 93–94

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Grande Montagne

The golden, succulent aromatic sweeps into a richly textural palate. Sunny ripeness, with a severe, steely cut under the palate. Very concentrated but super-fresh. Lovely contrast and balance. Super example. 2028–35+. 95–96

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Romanée

Silky, pure, and high-wired. Skates on an elegant, taut, and precise line. Focused, intense, and lively. Cold, sea-breeze, saline, and ozone finish. 2027–35. 94

DOMAINE MARC MOREY

Sabine Mollard, Marc Morey’s granddaughter, who now runs the estate, says: “I am very happy with this vintage. It was a good surprise, as it was very early and it could have been flat, but it is very aromatic and very well-balanced. It is maybe like 2012, but with more acidity. Easy, like 2012, but fresher. Possible to drink young or to keep.” Mollard makes an exciting range of wines.

Bourgogne Aligoté

Rather a steely, upright citrus and grapefruit aroma. Juicy strike, lemon pithy and bright, with a crunch to finish. 2025–28. 84

St-Aubin Premier Cru Les Charmois

Very pretty; spicy florals on the nose. A keen and lively palate, with oodles of freshness. Bright and smooth minerals to finish. Racy. 2026–32. 89

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets

Tropical fruit on the nose, with a hint of dried papaya, which carries to the spicy and quite opulently aromatic palate. An undertow of warm-stone, almost hot-stone, minerality on the smoky finish. 2028–25. 95

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Chenevottes

Expressive, ripe, spicy, yellow-plum aroma. Quite open-textured and rich with greengage fruit. Easy and generous. All on the fruit. 2027–32. 88

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Morgeot

From lieu-dit Ez Crottes, quite far down below the road on deep soil, although Mollard says there is some clay. She makes her red Morgeot from the parcel beneath. “I do not like fat Morgeot, so I start the harvest here to keep the acidity.” A somewhat furled, darker, earthy aroma, showing a hint of ripe peachy fruit. Broad across the beam. Dense. Sappy. Punchy and juicy with it. Smoky graphite bite to the really rather nicely fresh finish, which has an edge of bitterness. 2028–35+. 94

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Vergers

Delightful florals with a fine drift of oak and brioche. Pure and vivacious. I like this dynamic palate. Precise and crispy edged with a very well sustained somewhat salty finish. Silky texture. Probably the best Vergers I tried. Top-notch. 2028–38. 94

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Virondot

This has the longest élevage of the wines here 10 months barrel and 6 months tank. “Just stone here.” 50hl/ha with some 60-year-old vines and some 30 years old. More oak present. Super concentrated and works well with barrels. Channeled and precise. Dynamic and pushes through on a very long well sustained finish. And it’s savory, no tropical notes. 2028–35. 96

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles

Creamy rich and opulent up-front, but there is lots of energy in this Pucelles. Yes, there is candied fruit, but also citrusy freshness. It carries to a florally scented finish. Precise, and has sparkle. Complex. 2030–40. 95

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Once again at this domaine, this is a wine that delivers. It’s layered, profound, and punches into a persistent and very well-sustained finish. Carries on that extra line of silvery minerality and freshness. 2030–40. 98

Red

A good job with the reds here, too. Mollard has a light touch with Morgeot tannin.

Chassagne-Montrachet

Ripe blackcurrant and cinnamon aroma, with a sappy, fresh, tannic bite. Loads of crunchy tannins; energy and a lively finish. What’s not to like? 2026–32. 87

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot

Ripe and dense, with sweet blackberry fruit. Full-bodied, chocolate notes, and succulent tannins to a smooth and supple finish. 2027–32. 90

FERNAND AND LAURENT PILLOT

“The reds are racy and elegant, with soft tannins,” says Laurent Pillot. “The whites are between 2019 and 2020 in style.”

Bourgogne Aligoté

Ripe and juicy, with good acidity. 2024–26. 83

Bourgogne Chardonnay

Spicy and generous. Rich candied lemon, with citrusy acidity. Very appealing. 2024–28. 85

Puligny-Montrachet Noyers Brets

Bright, citrus, and singing. Energetic and well-edged, with a cool-stone, mineral note. 2026–30. 89–90

Chassagne-Montrachet

Chunky and full-bodied. Glossy and attractive, with soft acidity and a honeyed, caramelized orange note. Ripe apricot to finish. Quite unctuous and crowd-pleasing. 2026–30. 87–88

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Cailleret

Intense candied-citrus and greengage aromas. Straight, concentrated, and compact. A cold cut to the palate and a steely edge to the concentrated and persistent finish. 2027–35. 95–96

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Fairendes

Floral aroma. Delicate, trim, and straight on the palate. A light and saline Morgeot. 2027–32. 92–93

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Grandes Ruchottes

Super-juicy. Just a touch tropical. Pineapple underscored by savory saline notes to a lovely, long, sea-breeze finish. An intense and vibrant wine. 2027–35. 95–96

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot

From the Les Petits Clos lieu-dit. Rich, generous, succulent, and juicy. Sweet acidity and cold sapidity. Vibrant and well-sustained finish. 2028–32. 94

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Vergers

Smoothly citrus, with a sweep of supple minerality. Pure and silky, this finishes on a salty note. 2027–32. 92–93

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Vide Bourse

Powerful, punchy, and dense. Concentrated. Muscular, persistent finish. 2028–34. 95

St-Aubin Premier Cru Sentier du Clou

Vibrant, zesty, and salty, with a racy, fresh finish. Slim wine. Not very intense, but stylish. From the steepest slope in the estate. 2026–30. 86

Red

Pommard Premier Cru Charmots

This is more interesting than the Clos Vergers: a finer texture, more poise and intension. Zesty and savory, with chalkiness and greater persistence. 2027–32. 93

Pommard Premier Cru Clos Vergers

“Quite rocky and shallow soil. It’s very hot in the afternoon after the cold morning.” Smooth, supple, and even. It has an easy harmony and flows to the finish. Not especially fresh, but I like the smooth tannins. A certain simple charm for Pommard. 2026–32. 89

Pommard Premier Cru Rugiens

Largely from Rugiens-Hauts. Pure, straight, and focused. Edgy minerality and morello-cherry fruit. A good bitterness here, and an almond-kernel bite on the finish. 2027–34. 93–94

JEAN-MARC PILLOT

Antonin Pillot joined his father at the domaine in 2019. “We want more phenolics, so we do a long press. Where there is long aging, we have a better balance in the vintages with low acidity when we have more lees. So, we keep all the nice lees—more than before.” Other things have changed, too. “My father used to have 13.5% for the premiers crus, but now this doesn’t matter. We are looking for balance and complexity. I now use more 350-liter barrels, which retain more CO2 and preserve the energy in the wine. l will try 10hl foudres, to see if they are more reductive. The objective is to refine the style; to be purer and to achieve balance, but to keep the vintage character. The 2022 whites have acidity like 2019, but 2019 had lower yields, so was more concentrated. 2022 is like 2019 with less ripeness—which is good, as 2019 was often overripe.”

Puligny-Montrachet Les Noyers Bret

Juicy strike. Bright, silvery, citrus palate. Straight and clipped at the edges, but also has appealing richness. 2026–32. 88–89

Chassagne-Montrachet

This is now a blend of village parcels, as Antonin Pillot finds that this gives a more complete feel. Greengage, with a touch of toffee apple. Generous strike to an opulent, rounded palate. Comes through with good energy and citrus freshness. 2026–32. 87–88

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets

Silky and pure. Vigorous, cool, and focused to a persistent chalky finish. 2027–32. 93

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Champs-Gain

Ripe, yellow-fruit aroma; peaches and plums. A straighter, fresher, and more vibrant palate than the nose would suggest. 2027–35. 91–92

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Macharelles

From deep red clay at the village end, which never suffers from hydric stress and is picked last. Ripe, glacé-fruit aroma. Rich, full attack, to a rounded, rather voluptuous palate. Juicy freshness with it. Toasty, brioche notes to finish. 2027–32. 92

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Morgeot Les Fairendes

Juicy, fresh snap. A straight Morgeot from the top half of Fairendes, where the soil is more limestone. White-citrus, pithy, with some bite. Lively mineral bitterness at the end. 2027–32. 92

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Vergers

Candied-lemon aroma. Quite a glossy strike, but it quickly tightens to a well-defined, crisp, chalky profile, with a touch of lemon zest and salt to finish. 2027–35. 92–93

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Vergers Clos St-Marc

Good density and richness, powerful and glossy. Punchy and vigorous. This has a very juicy freshness. It always attains higher ripeness, but with more acidity than the Vergers tout court. I like both. 2027–35. 92–93

Red

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos St-Jean

By comparison with the other two reds, this is a notch up in elegance, freshness, and minerality. For a Chassagne red, there is admirable fluidity. Has a nice, tight, fresh, cold, salty bite at the end. “You feel the limestone under the quarry.” 2027–32. 92

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Macharelles

Ripe, red forest fruits. Juicy and generous. Splashing. The tannins are ripe, rich, and burly, with licorice bite, which provides freshness on the finish. 2027–32. 88

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Morgeot Les Fairendes

Juicy, with red fruits, smoother than the Macharelles, with rich, suede tannins and a cooler, fresh grip to the finish. 2027–32. 91

Côte de Beaune: Santenay

Côte de Beaune vineyard Santenay
Vineyards in Santenay. Photography by Shutterstock.

DOMAINE JESSIAUME

The last time I visited William Waterkeyn, who manages this domaine, he had just purchased some steel barrels and he is now convinced that they are best for the second part of the élevage. “The Chardonnay from here still needs oak, especially during the first stage, but using the steel barrels after that is great.” He is also still using larger steel vats, as “these are better for the lees contact.” All the reds are destemmed. “We extracted a little bit more than usual during the cuvaison, but not much during the pressing. We pressed very gently.” I particularly like the two contrasting Santenay village reds, which outperform their status. “In most places, we kept the elegant and fresh, vibrant fruit. We harvested at the right time. They are very aromatic, accessible right now, fresh and fruity, but with some depth and a real aging potential.”

Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Perrières

Ripe apricot aroma and a lightly rounded, peachy palate, through which there is a light, savory, and stony thread. 2024–26. 83

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Les Ecussaux

Ripe, yellow-fruit aroma. Rounded, soft, and creamy, with a slightly exotic feel. Maybe a little heavy, but crowd-pleasing. 2025–28. 85

Santenay Premier Cru Beauregard

From vines planted in 2018, just next to the Santenay windmill, and 2022 is the first released vintage. William has also been busy preparing the ground for another parcel of Chardonnay on very calcareous soil in Beauregard, on the edge of the climat, above Les Gravières, on a terrace that will require a winch cable to plow the soil. A perky aroma and ripe-pineapple fruit character, balanced with just-sufficient freshness. It’s sunny but trim enough, and has an attractive savory bitterness at the end. 2025–28. 86

Santenay Premier Cru Les Gravières

A Santenay with good presence, which pushes through. It shows some density mid-palate, and a little grip. Just nicely balanced with freshness, and an appealing pithy character to finish. A significant step up here. 2026–32. 89

Red

Santenay La Cassière

From vines under premier cru Maladière, in the middle of the Santenay vineyards, with a limon (silty) soil, mid-slope, with a southeast exposure. This is so very Pinot, with its fine texture and pure, singing, lucid fruit. Light and dancing on its toes. Crisp and bright with energy. Rather a good finish for a village Santenay. I really like this pretty wine. 2025–28. 86–87

Santenay Clos du Clos Genet

From a walled parcel within the clos, where there is clay soil and a spring, so it doesn’t lack for water. Succulent, sweet, black-cherry fruit, which is very ripe, with a touch of kirsch, which contrasts nicely with an appetizing bite of tannin. These tannins give an attractive firmness and boost the sense of freshness. Almond-kernel, savory bite on the finish. Overall, this is really seductive and well-balanced. 2025–28. 86–87

Santenay Premier Cru Les Gravières Numerus Clausus

This old-vine selection bestows the aroma with fruity concentration and good density to the mid-palate, which is balanced with plenty of freshness. The tannin texture is slightly grainy as well as quite deep, with bitter, rich, black chocolate. A more concentrated, albeit somewhat robust, Santenay. 2026–32. 88–89

Volnay Premier Cru Les Brouillards

Soft, full, and generous, with an abundance of really ripe summer fruits, the sweetness of which is offset with the light crispness of finely textured tannin, which lifts the finish. Relaxed and easy charm. 2026–32. 90

DOMAINE JEAN-MARC VINCENT

Jean-Marc Vincent works with a high canopy using tressage, high-density planting, and cover crops in his vineyards. He is replanting using a massal section from his grandfather’s vines grafted onto drought-resistant rootstock. In the winery, he gently breaks Chardonnay grapes, followed by a long, slow press and he doesn’t do a débourbage: “I think there is a lot hidden in the lees.” And in 2022, he wanted plenty. “If the lees were good, I went to 1,000 NTUs.” That’s very turbid, but he declassifies the last of the press-juice, as the pH is too high. He adds very little sulfur during the winemaking and doesn’t fine. “My spirit is very simple,” he says. I particularly like the sapid Gravières in red and white. Vincent uses a high proportion of whole-bunch for red (70%) but does only one or two punch-downs in total. He says, “I extract by patience.” I believe him. It shows in the texture of his reds.

White

Auxey-Duresses Les Hautés

From 80-year-old vines on a light-textured clay and limestone soil. “It took me years to understand this soil.” Ripe greengage, rather exotic aromas, while the palate is straight, nervy, and lime-zesty. 2026–32+. 87

Santenay Premier Cru Gravières

From high-density planting (17,000 vines per hectare). “There is high magnesium in this vineyard, which has lots of fossils.” Racy, linear, taut, and savory. I like energy and salinity on the finish. 2028–35. 90–91

Red

Santenay Premier Cru Le Beaurepaire

Sunny aroma, with red cherry and kirsch and a hint of mint. This is a fruit-driven wine, ripe and gentle on the palate, with a touch of soft marjoram leaf and orange and a supple texture. 2026–32. 89

Santenay Premier Cru Gravières

Floral, red-cherry aroma, rather more sophisticated than the Beaurepaire. Supple, velvety glide into the palate, with slight austerity and clip to the finish. More complex. There is tension and fine texture. Shows some finesse. 2028–25. 92

Santenay Premier Cru Le Passetemps

From 70-year-old vines inherited from his grandfather. “It can be a rustic place. You have to be very careful.” Dark fruit, black cherry and black pepper. This is much more robust than the Beaurepaire. It’s punchy, splashing, bold, and has grip. Notes of aniseed. 2027–32. 92

Côte de Beaune: Cheilly-lès-Maranges

DOMAINE CHEVROT

Brothers Pablo and Vincent Chevrot found that the vines bounced back after the frost-struck 2021 vintage, requiring serious de-budding. “We had 30 people. If you didn’t manage your team well, you could not be successful.” Sufficient rain, so no stress in the vineyards. “Low acidity, but not crazy low, and the malolactic didn’t change the pH much. Lots of whole-bunch, as it was ripe and I wasn’t worried about the pH. Smooth but not heavy wines, with higher acidity than 2018.” The Chevrots are using more 10–15hl foudres. “We love them. A €70,000 investment this year, but you keep them for 15 to 20 years.” Pablo compares the vintages: “The whites are a little like 2018, but finer. The reds are like 2009, but also finer and fruitier. Smoother and a little deeper than 2009.”

Bourgogne Aligoté Cuvée des Quatre Terroirs

Made in tank this year. 11.5% ABV. Very fresh and grapefruity, with a pithy, fennel, bitter note. Textural. Jolly nice Aligoté. 2025–30. 84–85

Bourgogne Aligoté Cuvée Spéciale Tilleul

From old vines planted in the 1950s, with a higher canopy, and where the soil has been horse-plowed for 20 years. The wine spends one year in foudres and six months in tank. It has depth; honeyed and savory richness, with lots of concentration and buttermint finish. 2025–32. 85

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune

From gray marls. A lively combination of ripe citrus and kiwi fruit, balanced with a cut of grapefruity acidity. Vibrant finish. It pings on the palate. Love it. 2025–32. 85

Maranges Premier Cru La Fussière

Now fermented and aged in foudres, as the brothers felt it was too oxidative in barrels. A cool and restrained aroma. Sharp, concise, and taut. Edgy. Salty and very persistent. Just a delight. 2027–35. 92–93

Red

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune

From gravels and soils high in magnesium. There was 20% whole-bunch, the first time for this wine. Dried-cherry aroma. It has toasted cumin and is tart with morello-cherry fruit; crunchy, with a touch of spicy bitterness. Very attractive. 2025–28. 85

Maranges Sur Le Chêne

From gravel soil: “This is both my coldest and my hottest place.” Black-cherry aroma. Darker, smokier notes, with oregano notes. It’s rather chewy but has an attractive licorice note on the finish. 2027–30+. 86

Maranges Premier Cru Les Clos Roussots

From gray marl. Deep, earthy, and rich on the strike. It’s quite luscious for Maranges and darkly fruity, along with the more tell-tale, robust tannins. 2027–35. 87

Maranges Premier Cru Le Croix Moines

“Whole-bunch 70%: Despite the crazy low acidity, you can use as much stems as you want, as this is always very soft. Because there is little acidity, you have to carry the wine with something, and the whole-bunch really helps.” Fragrant, with marjoram and chamomile and quince cheese. Sweetly velvet soft, almost raspberry jam on the palate. But on the finish, this is delicate, with a salty finish. 2027–32. 89

Maranges Premier Cru La Fussière

Ripe raspberry and white pepper. Super-crisp, taut, and austere. A sweet nugget of really ripe fruit on the mid-palate. It’s seriously snappy and smoky. A hot-and-cold wine. Flinty, sharp finish. My favorite red here. 2027–35. 91–92

Santenay Vieilles Vignes

There is 50% whole-bunch here. Some minty notes. Splashing red summer fruits, deep and juicy and slightly exotic, with a fresh earth and ferrous bite to the finish. 2027–30+. 86

Santenay Premier Cru Clos Rousseau

A slightly exotic aroma. The texture is soft and rich. Plump and quite sumptuous and chocolatey. 2027–32. 87

Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Les Jarrons

From leased vineyards and vines that are 40–50 years old. “There is horizontal planting—many vines in Savigny on the Beaune side are planted across the hill. It’s a nightmare to work. This is an early sector, so I thought it would ripen early, but actually it was later.” 50% whole-bunch. Violets on the aroma. On the palate, very spicy. Plentiful ripe fruit, balanced with minty, chilli freshness. 2027–30. 87

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