Cutting Edge: Innovation and Modern Cooking
There are many ways in which Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking (The Cooking Lab, Bellevue; 2011) goes…
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Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf 1989–2004
With the death in 1997 of Jacques Reynaud, owner of Château Rayas, it fell to Henri Bonneau to serve as…
Qualitas Qualitatis
This is not a series of prescriptions for quality in wine today, nor does it pretend to be a ‘scientific’…
Myths of ageability II
Given these circumstances (spelled out in WFW 43, p.54), there is the understandable temptation to stipulate as conditions of ageability…
New World Viognier: A Unique Beauty?
The Viognier story is an unusual one. It came, famously, within 15ha (37 acres) of extinction in the mid-20th century.…
Oak Barrels: The End of Forest Law
There is a fascination to watching a cooper make a barrel. To start with, straight staves sprout from a circle…
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The Pernin-Rossin Case and the Accad Method II
By diligent investigation, Guy Accad forged a code of practice that all good clients trusted. He was the only one,…
To the Limits of the Possible
Maury, you deduce in sniffing and sipping, is not a comfortable and rational place like Pomerol, Vouvray, or Vosne-Romanée but…
