A Most Cursed Hill: Painshill and the Beginnings of English Wine
An observant traveler taking the main road out of London toward Portsmouth might notice near Cobham the top of a…
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What Do We Talk About When We Talk About Wine?
It was Italian, from the Val d’Aosta. It was bottle number 401 from a mighty production of 413 bottles. I’d…
Cutting Edge: Innovation and Modern Cooking
There are many ways in which Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking (The Cooking Lab, Bellevue; 2011) goes…
Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf 1989–2004
With the death in 1997 of Jacques Reynaud, owner of Château Rayas, it fell to Henri Bonneau to serve as…
Qualitas Qualitatis
This is not a series of prescriptions for quality in wine today, nor does it pretend to be a ‘scientific’…
Myths of ageability II
Given these circumstances (spelled out in WFW 43, p.54), there is the understandable temptation to stipulate as conditions of ageability…
New World Viognier: A Unique Beauty?
The Viognier story is an unusual one. It came, famously, within 15ha (37 acres) of extinction in the mid-20th century.…
Oak Barrels: The End of Forest Law
There is a fascination to watching a cooper make a barrel. To start with, straight staves sprout from a circle…
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