Bruno Besa | Pale tawny to orange. Intense, mineral, quite restrained nose, with cedar wood, smoke, nuts, and prunes. Medium body, a balanced palate, with clean, small black and red fruits and a long, herbal finish. Not a monster of complexity, but a very well-made medium-bodied Barolo. | 89

Stephen Brook | Medium brick red, rather pale. Fragrant red-fruits nose, rather ethereal and on tiptoes. Delicate attack, lean and precise, but there’s not a lot of flesh here, and the acidity sears, giving some rawness. It’s pretty enough but also hollow. Despite the acidity, there is little lift and persistence, and the finish is feeble. | 86

Andrew Jefford | Very pale and clear in color. Bright, brisk raspberry fruits, semolina sweetness and the warmth of undergrowth behind. Deep, long, vivid, and firm on the palate, with the acid- tannin balance bringing all of the structure to the wine. In principle, then, this is a wine with rather a stern, military bearing, and yet the undergrowth fullness helps round and soften things out. Drily classical. | 91