Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, with a garnet rim. Rose petals on the nose. Nicely balanced palate, with fruit bold enough to stand up to the acidity and tannin. But it needs time, because the fruit hasn’t yet caught up with the savory side. Drink from 2018. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny. Intense, open, spicy, black-fruit nose, with fresh herbs, cedarwood, and road tar. Full body, with refined tannins, sweet-fruited mid-palate, and a long, mineral finish. Classic Barolo to enjoy over the next two decades. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep garnet red. Mellow, complex red fruits and orchard fruits, all swimming together in a wonderful vapory bath—a truly lovely fruited nose. Vivid, open, commanding wine; perhaps a little secondary for this stage in its evolution, but there’s a huge amount of depth and extract and profundity here; the ripeness is impeccable and hard to resist. It’s not without freshness, despite the evolution, and all in all it adds up to a completely glorious wine of commanding grandeur. It will sit and hold easily for a decade and last for another one after that, I’m sure. Yet it has the advantage of not being forbidding now. Super work: bravo. 18