Stephen Brook: Rich flowery nose, crushed almonds, apricot - but marred by a whack of S02. Fresh, lean, off-dry; indeed a hint of sweetness that nicely balances the fresh acidity. Has charm and delicacy - which is what one is looking for from Mosel, even in a dry style - but not much complexity. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Quite deep copper. Very ripe notes, even white pepper. I'd guess Wachau on the nose. Lacks a bit of acidity, though the flavours are well delineated. 14

Alexander Scott: Explosively ripe to smell, white peach and almost into the realm of the more exotic fruits. Sensual, perfumed palate. Almost a sensation of sweetness, though this is not essentially from residual sugar. Sheer, immediate pleasure: Offenbach? Will keep, but why bother? 16