Stephen Brook: Reserved nose, but has some welcome botrytis. Rich, creamy, intense, very sweet but has fine underlying acidity to balance it; piquant, tangy aftertaste keeps it lively; good potential. Quite good length, appley finish. 17

Andrew Jefford: Very full gold for Mosel 2003. Again, most unusual scents for Mosel: this almost smells like Bergerac Moelleux or Saussignac. In other words, sweetness is completely lording it over the (missing) woodland freshness, the (lost) orchard fruits, the (eclipsed) spice gardens, and the effect is rather drab and barley sugar-like. Very rich and sweet. Yes, acidity is present beneath - but even that is a luscious apricot acidity or a baked orange acidity. In other words, this lacks all of the quickness and darting grape-fresh incision one expects to find to provide the marrow (and cellar evolution) of a great Mosel Auslese. 13.5

Jancis Robinson: Relatively deep gold. Very honeyed and almost worryingly evolved. Lots of pleasure, but surprisingly short-term pleasure for an Auslese. Honey and a little passion-fruit note. Very flattering. Drink 2007-15. 16.5