Andrew Jefford | This mid-gold wine has a little pearling on the sides of the glass, so there is some dissolved CO2 here. Forthcoming and overt aromas evoke (for me) daffodils and hyacinths and spring-bulb flowers. There are also some plant and sap notes, and even something a little meaty/funky. Little fruit, by contrast, though it would be fair to say that there is a sweet aromatic layer, too: intriguing. It is very characterful and, as such, might prove divisive; complexity rather than purity here. It’s another wine that changes quite swiftly in the glass. It is, I feel, a bit of a muddle in the mouth, and I find its character a little oppressive in the end, though I can see that the vineyards are high in quality—there is length and fruit-breed there when you let the palate calm and rest. I don’t find the aromas particularly attractive, and they are a very dominant part of this wine. A little too much funk for fun. I don’t think funk and Riesling mix well. German in new-wave style? | 86

Stephan Reinhardt | This intense, white-gold Riesling offers a relatively loud and floral flavored bouquet of super-ripe fruits intertwined with notes of finely crushed stones (or slate). The wine opens up on the air, becomes more and more complex but also refined, offering herbal scented fruit notes. Surely more open-hearted than some. On the palate, this is a crystalline, finessed, and elegant, sustainably salty Riesling, with a ripe and juicy fruit yet the linear course and crystalline acidity of a slate terroir. Endlessly salty and provided with a fine tannin grip; I assume this will be a great (Mosel) Riesling in a few years’ time. 2025–45. | 94

Anthony Rose | A pale gold in color, this is expressively smoky and limey-scented, with underlying savory, almost umami-like notes. There’s a faint prickle, perhaps from time on lees. The fruit is attractively rich, intense, and dry, and supported by an almost salty acidity that keeps the flavors coming through to a satisfyingly balanced, dry finish. | 90