Stephen Brook: Powerful nose, peaches. Lush, rich, broad and full-bodied for the Mosel; com pletely opposite in style to [the Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Josephshofer Auslese Monopol] and lacks its elegance. Soft finish, medium length. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: More gold than green. Slightly odd, earthy, celery-like aromas. Full, very sweet, almost candied: ripeness rampant. Rather cloying finish, which is not what we hope for... 12

Jancis Robinson: Natural yeast stink. Considerable opulence on the palate. Obviously from a site that attracted enormous ripeness in 2003. Round, molten honey character with some blossom - elderflower? Still extremely youthful, but with real personality. Quite sweet. Drink 2010-24. 17.5