Stephen Brook: Dumb nose, though with some richness of fruit lurking. Lean, zesty, delicate, harmonious, yet has a slightly earthy finish. An easy-drinking, early-drinking style, since this has little length or complexity. 14

Jancis Robinson: Delicate, florally fragrant, but a trace of oiliness already. Quite noticeable residual sugar as well as alcohol. Not quite sure how I'd drink this - with chilli prawns? Yes, that could be pretty good. Very tingly finish, just a little gap towards the end of the palate. 15

Alexander Scott: Cooler and stonier to smell than the Winningen R6ttgen. Still very ripe, but more tensile. Greater zest carries through to a longer finish. Worth holding two or three years or more. 16.5