Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Rich, tangy, taut; lively but not harsh acidity; grapefruity tang on aftertaste. This begins rich but develops more leanness on the palate, so it gains in elegance. Has some style and panache, and there's ample fruit as well as acidity. Complex and long. 17

Jancis Robinson: Low-key but pungent nose. Open and easy, without great concentration. Attractive current drink. 14

Alexander Scott: Again we are in the rea lms of good winemaking, but there's not enough to stir the spirit. Ripe and concentrated and balanced, but that's about it. Dry to fin ish, will keep a few years. 14