Stephen Brook: Lean nose, ripe grapefruit, hints of tropical fruit. Surprisingly light and uncomplicated; a mouthful of pleasant sweet fruit with little complexity or minerality. Nor is it that concentrated or deep. Lacks length and stylishness. 14

Margaret Rand: Very good lifted nose; palate intense. Peachy, smoky, mineral, coffee. Transparent and concentrated, balanced and with great finesse. Great complexity and finesse—very fine wine indeed. 19

Jancis Robinson: Very pale greenish straw. Light and very fresh on the nose. Green and scented, though not with recognizably grapey or winey aromas. Something a little reminiscent of the [Weingut Groebe Westhofener Kirchspiel Auslese] here. Still, lots of delivery, even if very slightly reminiscent of the bathroom rather than the kitchen. Drink 2012–19. 17.5