Stephen Brook: Muted appley nose, but has some charm. Rich and supple, but not that concentrated; pleasant apple and apricot fruit, but not much grip or structure or persistence. Fairly short. 13

Margaret Rand: Silky, peachy, and exciting; quince and crystallized green fig fruit. Characterful and unusual. Very complex and very long. Exciting stuff. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Some tiny bubbles. Very surly nose yields up the merest hint of “apple”-scented commercial shampoo. Then very fresh honeyed fruit that’s almost like “apricot” yogurt pushes through on the palate. I am probably being far too mean to this wine—the product of painstaking work in the vineyard—but these are the flavors it reminds me of. A bit astringent still on the finish. Drink 2012–17. 16