Stephen Brook: Odd mix of ripe grapefruit and boiled sweets on the nose, but not disagreeable. Rich, quite powerful; has weight and depth and concentration, all backed by firm acidity. Tangy aftertaste, with a strong mineral presence. This has complexity and length, and there is nothing heavy-handed about it. 18

Jancis Robinson: Creamy, hazelnut aromas. Low-key and rather dull. Workmanlike; sturdy with marked astringency. Relatively hard work. 13.5

Alexander Scott: Super-ripe. Sweetly generous in the mouth, yet also compact, coiled, latently powerful. But, in the end, it lacks soul for me, tasting a bit like formulaic winemaking, albeit at the very highest level of competency. 16