Stephen Brook: Light gold. Muted nose, lightly honeyed and caramelly. Lush, voluptuous, creamy, broad, and even a touch heavy, which is often the case with Pfalz TBA. Has an irresistible sensuous character and an opulence of peachy, exotic fruit that make up for the slight lack of acidity. Fine length and some citric bite give a rousing finish. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Rich and cushiony, very lush, thick cream. Very good balance and penetrating acidity to keep the whole thing in check. An enormous mouthful, and with an enormous finish. 18.5

Jancis Robinson: Mid-gold. Looks as though it is from a much older vintage. Developed slightly syrupy nose, with a strong green streak. Very long, reverberates. Pretty impressive, though not nearly ready. Strong lemon-sherbet notes—not so obviously botrytized as some. But with massive sugar and acid—perhaps just very unevolved? Still a lot of sulfur in evidence. Drink 2015–30. 18.5