Stephen Brook: Limes and mandarins on the nose. Fairly rich, but lacks some tautness. Rounded and easy-going, with ample underlying acidity. Not much flair or excitement here, but eminently drinkable and fresh. 14

Jancis Robinson: Strong, confident statement on the nose. Well mannered but a little mousy. Ungenerous and rather hard. Very marked, slightly unripe acidity. 13

Alexander Scott: Oh dear, this is beginning to sound repetitive. Noticeably the same style as the Forst Pechstein and Forst Kirchen stuck. Is this the same grower? Very high standard, and as concentrated as we all demand these days, but where is the sense of place, the sense of adventure? In artistic terms this is Mark Rothko: stuck in a rut. 16.5