Stephen Brook: Light gold. Burnished nose, quite raisiny, caramel, marmalade. Rich and broad; fruit salad; a lush, rotund style with more weight than finesse. Certainly sumptuous, but there’s a pretty lemony acidity on the finish, so it’s not heavy-handed. Not exactly elegant, but then this is a more typical Pfalz style. 17.5

Margaret Rand: Lovely floral/coffee nose, and an endless finish that has both great finesse and great concentration. An enormous wine that manages not to appear enormous; everything is balanced and refined and light. It will last for years, but it would also be delicious now. 19

Jancis Robinson: Deep coppery gold. Heady hazelnut nose, with lots of very pronounced botrytis concentration. In fact, it’s difficult to see why this is not a Trockenbeerenauslese. It is so heavy and sweet, with burned-sugar notes, yet has sufficient acidity. Refreshing finish, but not so much subtlety for the moment. Quite demanding of the taster, with so much sugar and acidity! 18.5