Simon Field: Creamy, ripe, sophisticated nose; pleasant perfume. On the palate, chewy tannins keep the weight of fruit in check, and there is almost a hint of the garrigue in the background to underline seriousness of intent. Powerful and contextually persuasive. 16.5

Richard Mayson: Tight-knit, peppery and giving very little away on the nose; some underlying intensity. Taut and tight-knit on the palate, too, with some good, fine-grained if slightly lean tannins. Fine, well poised and impressive for the medium to long term. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Purplish crimson. Very sweet but rather sweaty/cheesy. Big, bold, unsubtle. Alan Sugar? Then masses of tannin and rather too obvious acidity. Extremely em bryonic. Distinctly unknit. Aggressive. Yelling at the top of its voice! 15