Gerard Basset: Medium-deep green-yellow. Beautiful, candy nose, apricot and spices. Rich but well-balanced structure, waxy and spicy retro-olfaction, medium-long finish. 17

Marcel Orford-Williams: Quite rich, some body and flavour. Tastes of wine. Well made, with some middle and length. 15

Roy Richards: A different league on the nose, punchy, masculine wine, explosive on palate and a bit fatiguing, but I can see a role for this, with its rich sugar and high acidity. Bring on the foie gras. 16.5