Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Sweet, damp, dew - sprinkled fruits. Fresh, though relatively slight enchantment. Fairly simple construction here, alas. A bit short and brittle; not an outstanding 2003. 11.5

Simon Larkin : One is hard pressed to comment on aromas so inexpressive; vaguely ripe, exotic fruit will suffice. The palate has more to say, with a volume-oriented fruit and tangy pith - and quite intense, too. Vibrancy too, but a suggestion of some disjointed acidity here sadly, which makes for a wine that is at odds with itself. Warmth to the finish as well. A struggle in this vintage? 12

Alexander Scott: Aromatic with a hint of anise. Punchy palate, not as relaxed, cool and natural as Georg Breuer’s Rudesheim Berg Schlossberg, but this is still good wine. A little simpler though, and the finish is a bit clumsier. We must not carp. After five years it would be an admirable partner for a warm salad of scallops with a lemon and truffle dressing. 14.5