Simon Field: Ruby colouring, opaque core. Minerals on the nose, with a slightly chalky backdrop. The palate is quite stern, acidic, lacking the largesse, definition and complexity of the top examples. Slightly hollow and monochrome in a valley of colour. 13

Andrew Jefford: Mid-depth of black-purple. A spray of fruits but also slightly coarse and beefy. Dense stuff, quite tannic, quite pounding, with lots of extract and length, but what’s missing is the fruit purity and breed. This comes over as a little jammy and insistent. 14

Richard Mayson: Very deep opaque centre, thin purple rim. Again closed - going through that phase - but with underlying ripe fruit, tight, peppery-spicy fruit, not as big or fleshy as some 1994s but ripe and well balanced. Drink 2008-2025.16