Simon Field: Brick colour, hinting at maturity, with long legs and pleasing scents that combine notes of mandarin and dark chocolate. On the palate, the texture is broad and generous, voluptuous without being hugely complex. Persistence and accessibility. 15

Andrew Jefford: Clear garnet: some brick at the rim. Very meaty, almost beefy nose, savoury, a touch rustic: not entirely successful aromatic evolution. Rich, stewy, meaty, full: the power of a Port but the style and flavour development of an old-school St-Emilion. Not faulty, but lacks the pure fruit core for true classicism. 11

Richard Mayson: Mid-pale ruby-pink colour, pink rim. Rather hollow, washed-out nose, with a hint of Bovril and a touch stewed. Fresher on the palate but fairly lightweight, simple, peppery fruit. Quite enjoyable now and over the next 8-10 years. 10.5