Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Distinctly sweet, silky texture; appealing fruitiness, delicate acidity, a bit confected and obvious. Quite good length, claggy finish. 14

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Classic peaches and cream here. Lively balance behind the rich, vivid, sweet, pressed-fruit compote-like succulence. These three Rheinhessen Auslesen are all very impressive, but they do leave one longing for some mineral gravity. The acidity once again is just enough to keep a sense of cloyingness at bay... but only just. One would love to give them a higher score on the basis of effort and richness, but there is a sense that ripeness ran away with everyone in 2003. 15

Jancis Robinson: Nutty nose and then very broad, sweet palate with just a kick of acidity to keep it refreshing. Really flashy and opulent - a bit of a flamenco dancer. And why not? The most tension and acidity and elderflower race of the three [Rheinhessen Auslesen]. Drink 2008-17.18