Stephen Brook: Closed nose—a touch corked? Lean, one-dimensional, concentrated, but lacks character. Has slight cork taint robbed this of its vigor and complexity? Not obviously corked, but it doesn’t smell entirely healthy, and it tastes rather flat. Medium length. 14

Margaret Rand: Intense, bright, coffee fruit; closed on the palate at the moment, but with a very big finish, rich and penetrating. A light, bright note to the wine keeps it refreshing and elegant. Very classy stuff. 18

Jancis Robinson: Pale greenish straw. Light sugary nose. Very astringent. Is it slightly corked? Certainly finishes rather suddenly. This may have been a disappointing bottle, but we didn’t have a backup. Very hard finish. This did not seem as fruity as it should. Very jagged. Drink 2014–20. 17