Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, bright, attractive. Nose switches from drainsy to spicy/herby. Medium-bodied wine of good acid backbone and tannic structure, good without setting the world on fire, lacks a bit of concentration. Drink 2012-2020. 14

Roy Richards Animal, sauvage, good reduction, if that makes sense. This clears to something rather duller. The palate has a lot of fruit and is showy, but not quite what I expect from the appellation. This wine is good, but veers too much towards fruit juice. 14

Franco Ziliani: Very intense, fleshy fruit nose with cassis, black pepper, red currant, leather and wild meat notes, and some mineral aspects. The palate is rich, well-expressed and -balanced, with a good structure and solid and ripe tannins. Good now, but lay down in your cellar: has ageing potential. 17.5