Nicolas Belfrage: Properly opaque—the first one [27th in the tasting]. Oak on nose. Very compact concentrated fruit, with lowish acidity tending toward gluggability rather than finesse. A very impressive, muscular wine that might be difficult to actually drink. 13.5

Stephen Brook: Dense black fruits, surprisingly tarry. Very rich attack, with sumptuous black fruits and impressive concentration and weight. This would be oppressive were it not for the admirable acidity, which lifts the wine and cleanses the palate. Perhaps it lacks some typicity and clarity, but the balance of power, intensity, and fruit is hard to resist. Good length, with some furry tannins on the finish. 18

Andrew Jefford: Dark, semi-opaque black-red. Complex, voluble, and, in terms of aromatic allusion and style, very contemporary; this is an exciting, sassy Brunello with lots of black-fruit sexiness and layered incense spice. The lack of refinement might not please purists, but it’s hard to sniff the wine and not feel a tug of attraction and excitement. Energetic, darting, and lithe, on the palate this is a little less fleshy and decked than the aromas suggested, with considerable acidic drive and thrust. There’s a huge volume of flavory excitement here, and considerable effort has gone into making this a reference for the area. It has a good 15 years of evolution ahead, and those years may bring a little of the subtlety and composition that perhaps eludes the wine at present. Lots to enjoy in the interim, though. 16