Stephen Brook | There may be a slight oxidation on the nose, which lacks clarity and freshness. The palate, too, is lackluster, with rather dry tannins and a lack of zest and purity. I suspect a poor bottle, because there is little pleasure here, and it already seems past its best. | 83

Andrew Jefford | Clear, translucent garnet. Just a little resinous: warm pine forests on a summer’s day. And very lovely, too. Deep, smooth, soft, rounded, and mellow; it seems like this has stolen a year or two on its peers, somehow, and is one of the few wines in this tasting that I would say is “fully ready.” Just a lovely mouthful: poised, ripe, and glowing, with absolutely nothing that could disconcert or alarm. Perfect debutante’s Brunello—and I mean that as a compliment. | 88

Michael Palij | Pronounced, gamey nose, with stewed black fruit and an earthy character that sets off the bramble, plum, cherry, and vanilla. Complex and beguiling, the palate is equally impressive, with masses of fruit, concentration, and length. This may be slightly overwrought, but right now it stands out for its punchy character and hedonistic appeal. | 97