Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Up-front nose of Christmas cake or gingerbread character. Mouthwatering acidity and correct tannins make it a candidate for future improvement. Concentrated and long. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink, orange rim. Touch closed yet mature, with layered black-fruit character and hints of cloves and dried herbs. Full body, with big tannins well balanced by the layered black fruit. Long and a touch rustic on the finish. Very young wine. 16

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Lots of volume of aroma here: plum, a hint of rose, a hint of curry plant, too. And oak. Exotic and arresting. Deep, smooth, soft yet generous and multilayered, this is another wonderfully ripe wine, yet it is one that has kept its poise, too, thanks to prodigious though softly constituted tannins rather than any sense of sustained acidity. There is plentiful spice behind the rich plum fruit. Generous and satisfying, as well as easy to drink; no one is going to query this once the cork is pulled. 17