Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep, some turn. Fresh fruit, appleand- pear nose, with morello cherry. Also a touch of cheese. Not a successful bottle: gritty tannins and a rough finish. 14

Bruno Besa: Garnet to tawny; pink rim. Mature, complex, herbal nose, with prunes, oriental spices, cedar wood, and hints of smoke. Beautifully balanced, mineral, and complex palate, with superb tannic grip, and mature, small black-fruits nose. The wine finishes lively, with inviting herbal complexity. A serious, old-school wine. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Clearing dark red, with just a little incipient browning. Slightly caramelized nose. Firm, full, very ripe wine, which has slightly slipped the grasp of its creator... But I’d still love to drink it for dinner. It has the tannin and nobility of its origins, but the fruit is a little smudged and muddied. 14