Stephen Brook | Tobacco aromas leap from the glass, as well as sour cherries and other red fruits. It’s broad-shouldered and concentrated, with robust tannins that seem to overwhelm the palate at present, as does the alcohol. This is an unrestrained style that’s let the dog off the leash. I’d prefer more elegance, but it does have vigor and energy and a raw power. Quite long, withatarry finish. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Dark, brooding black-red, though as always translucent. Warm, tarry, herbal scents, with some animal notes, too. After a while, all this settles down, and it is the woodland classicism that comes to the fore. Lots of sweet plum on the palate: toothsome stuff. Juicy and enticing, and very delicious. The score seems almost unfair for a wine this delicious, but that underlines the overall strength of this tasting. | 85

Michael Palij | Closed, with soft notes of coffee and cedar, but the overall impression is one of dilution and muddled flavors. On the palate, this is simple and coarse, with a short, angular finish. | 85