Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, bright. Nose a bit inexpressive at the moment. Plummy, fruit-salady palate, with everything in place but no great spark. Drink from 2016. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Garnet to tawny. Intense, mineral nose with cedarwood, small red fruits, hints of toasted bread, black olives, and white truffles. Medium body, with lush, clean red fruit and very long, gripping finish. Another great, classically crafted Sangiovese that needs food. 18

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Ripe and fresh at the same time, as it should be when well-adapted varieties complete a generous season in a serendipitous location. On the palate, by contrast, the handling of the fruit here seems overly artisanal and just a little coarse, though it is a generous mouthful. 13