Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, still ruby on edge. Clean, elegant nose. Bitter twist comes through on palate; plenty of ripe cherry fruit, good structure; needs five years. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Discreet black-cherry nose, with an appealing herbal tang. Sleek attack, poised, with good concentration and ripe tannins. Plenty of vigor and spice here, though not quite the persistence of flavor that the attack promises. An appealing, fleshy, and well-balanced Brunello that somehow doesn’t quite scale the heights. Long chewy finish. 17

Andrew Jefford: Deep, clear red-black, not far off opacity. Rich, complex, finely composed aromatic profile: somber yet ripe fruits qualified by spice incense and licorice. You sense you are in good hands. Intense, deep, and searching, laden with the earthy, oak-forest complexities you hope for in this wine. A brisk poised opening; lots of central-palate warmth, and the wine then tapers away toward an edgier though still flavor-saturated finish. Well-extracted tannins ruffle the flavor action. Dense finishing extracts and a long flavor trace promise 15 years of evolution ahead. Despite all the acidity, there is a core of resonant warmth at the heart of the wine. Outstanding if in the soprano register for this tasting. 16.5