Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep, bright. Typical herb/lanolin nose. Packed with sweet, succulent, dark-cherry fruit; good long finish. Perhaps not a Brunello lover’s idea of what it ought to be, but it’s a punter’s dream: fruit-driven, powerful, balanced, and long. Drink from 2016. 17.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink; tawny rim. Broad, mature, touch-rustic nose, with prunes and smoked red meat and hits of cedarwood. Full body with sweet clean fruit, lacking in complexity and refinement. 15

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Strange: grassy. Canopies? But in this vintage? On the palate, too, the fruit is much less successfully ripened than for most of its peers. The standard is so high that it’s almost reassuring to find one that falls short. Not a bad red, but it doesn’t honor the Brunello name in this great, ripe vintage. 12