Nicolas Belfrage: Deep. Plummy pruney nose, some old oak. That overused word “rich” seems to apply; Christmas pud comes to mind. But strangely seductive withal. I’d be very interested to see it again in five years’ time. It has character. 16

Stephen Brook: Subdued nose, with some rich berry fruit lurking. Fresh and sprightly attack, with nimble acidity and distinct tannins. However, the fruit seems fairly light, and this shows charm rather than depth or complexity. Some mocha on the finish. A pretty wine, accessible now, but I want more depth and persistence from Brunello. 16

Andrew Jefford: Good depth of red here, but the brick-red hue suggests considerable evolution. Rather stemmy, grassy, kerosene-like aromas, without the class or refinement of the best. On the palate, too, this has a slightly keroseney repertoire of flavors, which suggests mixed ripeness (and perhaps imperfectly managed canopies). Nonetheless, it’s a wine of depth and exuberance; there is no shortage of concentration here. 10