Simon Field: Dramatic amber-to-orange color, a Turner seascape in the early evening… Attractive nose of dates, rosehip, and leather. The palate maintains a charming nervosité, the orange notes are civil and balanced, the sugar integrated, and the whole piece is astonishingly balletic for one who has slept for so long. 17

Richard Mayson: Mid amber-tawny, looking quite youthful against its peers. Rich, intense, but quite fresh, with toffee fruit and wonderful mouthfeel; soft, smooth, and silky, with length and poise. Not the most complex of the 40-year-olds but certainly one of the most drinkable. 17

Margaret Rand: Sweet and raisiny, with not much showing on the nose. The palate has some complexity but is dominated by raisiny sweetness. The finish is big and powerful and sweet. 16