Jesús Barquín:Ruby, with orange-amber rim. Relatively discreet nose with a note of marzipan. It is on the palate where it shines: expressive and complex array of spices, walnut, and honeyed fruit. Powerful finish, with nutty echoes of noble oxidation and spicy aftertaste. 93

Andrew Jefford:Deep, dark, clear, and translucent glowing russet-walnut. Very mentholated and hence freshened, with a sweet, raisiny succulence below. Poised, concentrated, and enticing palate, with lots of citrus zest pungency to redeem the sweetness, and with an understated acidity to provide further balance. Smoky complexities, too—good wine, well aged, and admirably scrutinized and stewarded through the cellar years. Close to a benchmark 20 Year Old. 92

Richard Mayson:Mid-deep core, amber-tawny rim; lifted on the nose. Fresh but lacking charm, giving more on the palate with some creamy fruit, but an abrupt finish retaining too much youthful tannin for a 20 Year Old. All over the place. 78