Michel Bettane: Lactic, cedary nose, velvety texture; strict tannins, great length; obvious style, lots of future—classical wine 17.5

Thierry Desseauve: Tight and structured, Havana cigar notes, serious wine, austere style. Wait 10 years 16.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, gently oaky, and minerally to smell; nicely balanced, rich middleweight in the more austere style of the vintage; red fruit and mineral flavors, nice length in the mouth and on the finish, but austere as yet, and needing a good 6 years or so in bottle. 2018–28 16