Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Here is another “other” wine that is surely capable of competing with the grands vins of the appellation; wonderfully stylish black-fruit fragrance, magnificently civilized texture; the finish is tight but not harsh. 18

Michael Schuster: Dense, mineral, lightly oak-cedar nose; nicely balanced middleweight, fresh, finely tannic, with a generous, crisp, lightly gravelly red-fruit flavor; a nice, fat, and velvety ’09 texture, and good, light length, but perhaps lacking a bit of scope and complexity in the context of the vintage? 2014–24. 15.5/16