Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, with beginnings of orange on the rim. Nose of freshly washed linen and herb, rather than fruit. Good attack and width, with fruit accompanied by spice and herb. A little dry on the finish, tannins-wise. A sleeper, but with good promise. Drink from 2017. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to thin tawny rim. Broad, mature, yet mineral and complex nose, with prunes, black cherries, smoke, and leather. Compact, smoky palate, with great tannins and layered black fruit. Needs time, but rich and complex. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Saturated deep black-red. Savory, warm, gentle, open, earthy; even a touch of truffle. Impressionistic but alluring. With time in the glass, further aromas emerge: hay, meadow flowers. Smooth, rich, earthy, and innately complex on the palate, with very fine-grained tannins, and tannins of remarkably flavory articulacy, too: dense, licoricey, meaty, leafy. A relatively unshowy wine, which grows and grows in interest as you spend more time with it. Despite the ripeness, there is an absolute classicism here that is commanding; all one might wish for is a little more aromatic precision, but the quality of the wine is so good that this seems like carping. 18.5