Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, slight turn. Somewhat muted nose delivering hints of fresh and dried herbs plus sweet fruit (amarena). The finish is firm, and the length is complex; needs time to knit together but has good potential. Drink from 2018. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink rim. Complex, tobaccoleaf- like nose, with small black fruits and complex, graphite-like minerality. Medium body, with sweet small red-fruit palate and lively acidity. Long and fairly complex. Great, classic Brunello, yet a touch simplistic. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Clear, limpid black-red, very handsome in the glass. A wonderfully complex aroma, enfolding the woods and streams and hills and farmyards of the whole landscape, and not simply the vineyards. Some oak sweetness, too, but well incorporated. On the palate, this is sober, resonant, and long. It doesn’t have the flamboyant ripeness of some of its peers, nor their bomber tannins; everything here is marshaled and elegant, but there is great tenacity and depth, too. Outstanding classicism (provided you are not opposed to oak) and poise in this wine. 18