Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Surprisingly penetrating, characterful nose. Palate, however, is overweight, with an excess of all things good, which alas don’t come together. Will they ever? Suspect not, but try again in 2015. 14

Stephen Brook: Brooding nose, black fruits, tobacco, and mocha; a modern-style Brunello. Very rich and opulent but a touch flat and cushiony in texture. The mid-palate shows fine concentration, firm tannins, and a somewhat gawky acidity that seems at odds with the rest of the wine. But that acidity also gives the wines its persistence. This isn’t harmonious, and a hint of overripeness troubles me, but this should come together with more bottle age. 17

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red, and very nearly opaque. Wonderfully enticing and gratifying aromatic spectrum, with a huge wealth of plummy, creamy fruit oozing from the glass. It has the diagnostic Tuscan subtlety, too, with all that tobacco-leaf and oak-leaf subtlety; but within the context of this tasting, this is distinguished by its Pomerol-like visceral charm. Vivid and deeply fruited here, too. That fruit is generous, beautifully ripe, and amply supported not so much by tannins (those are relatively soft and discreet here) but by extract and aromatic allusion. A large-boned, generous, and comely Brunello that I challenge any Italian wine lover not to enjoy. 15.5